Cooler tones with Goldwell - grey coverage

[dannivdb]

Hi!
I was trying to upload a pic bit it says the file is too big.....

My client is a natural level 6 with around 70% grey. Last time we did a root tint with 6na, balayage with lightener and colorance 5a on the remaining midlengths/ends.

She feels her overall colour is too warm, its looks around a 6b, (this is on the red side if the colour wheel) her inspiration pic is roughly a 5mb.
Someone has suggested I don't need to add any n shade to this to cover 100% grey......this isn't what I've always thought though so am hoping someone can help.

Thanks for reading!

 

[dannivdb]

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[dannivdb]

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[salonsaviour]

Hi Dannivdb,

It sounds about right that you are using 'NA' for grey coverage. As you say - you do need some 'N' in for coverage with Goldwell at least!

You mentioned her inspiration pic is about a 5MB? Have you considered adding a touch of 'MB' either a level 6 as you are using that on the root area already or a 5 (like the inspiration picture) as you are using that on the mid-lengths/ends already?
If you are mixing 40 of 6% then 25 of 6NA to give full coverage - that leaves 15 for 'fashion shade' which would be 6MB?

Just a thought, as I have found the 'MB' does do a good job at knocking out the aforementioned 'red' tones in hair. Could you take a strand test before her next appointment and play around with a few colours to get the ideal shade?

Hope this helps!

Han

 

[vividamnesia]

M=Mahogany which means that it has more red+blue pigment in it so it is a combo of cool=B & warm=R pigments. B=brown/beige/Neutral means there is a balanced amount of RYB pigments in it. If you break down the formula to the root primary colors(RYB) you are adding a double dose of R+B pigments which makes the Mahogany color more prominent especially on white hair, the R+B=Mahogany will be much brighter/warmer because the white hair is missing the natural RYB pigments that make up all color. It takes all 3 RYB pigments present to achieve any N/.0 or B/.7 level in virgin haircolor & or hair dyes.

When formulating for white hair you must always add some ratio of N/.0 to the formula depending on % of the white hair. 50%+ white I generally use 1/2N/.0 in the formulation for max coverage & less for less than 50% white like 1/3N/.0 for the formula. This provides the missing RYB pigments to the white hair. I find a good mix is to add a Gold based color to the formula like 50/50 5N/.0+5G/.3. The balanced RYB pigment in the N/.0 color will provide enough R to balance out the formula & the G/.3 will add the right kind of warmth that is needed. This means you are adding a double dose of Y pigment rather than R. If you look @ the underlying pigment chart,

you can see that R pigment starts fully @ a lv.4 as a lv.5 has more Y+a tiny bit of R to get Orange. Typically no red should be incorporated into color formulations a lv.5+ if target color is more on the cooler,ash or neutral side. The dominant missing pigment in lv.5+ will always be Y. The tiny bit of R needed in the lv.5 color for balance will be present in the N/.0 series used in the formulation. Hope this helps explain for you better!

 

[EssexFreelance]

M=Mahogany which means that it has more red+blue pigment in it so it is a combo of cool=B & warm=R pigments. B=brown/beige/Neutral means there is a balanced amount of RYB pigments in it. If you break down the formula to the root primary colors(RYB) you are adding a double dose of R+B pigments which makes the Mahogany color more prominent especially on white hair, the R+B=Mahogany will be much brighter/warmer because the white hair is missing the natural RYB pigments that make up all color. It takes all 3 RYB pigments present to achieve any N/.0 or B/.7 level in virgin haircolor & or hair dyes.

When formulating for white hair you must always add some ratio of N/.0 to the formula depending on % of the white hair. 50%+ white I generally use 1/2N/.0 in the formulation for max coverage & less for less than 50% white like 1/3N/.0 for the formula. This provides the missing RYB pigments to the white hair. I find a good mix is to add a Gold based color to the formula like 50/50 5N/.0+5G/.3. The balanced RYB pigment in the N/.0 color will provide enough R to balance out the formula & the G/.3 will add the right kind of warmth that is needed. This means you are adding a double dose of Y pigment rather than R. If you look @ the underlying pigment chart,

you can see that R pigment starts fully @ a lv.4 as a lv.5 has more Y+a tiny bit of R to get Orange. Typically no red should be incorporated into color formulations a lv.5+ if target color is more on the cooler,ash or neutral side. The dominant missing pigment in lv.5+ will always be Y. The tiny bit of R needed in the lv.5 color for balance will be present in the N/.0 series used in the formulation. Hope this helps explain for you better!

M is for matte not mahogany

 

[vividamnesia]

M is for matte not mahogany

Well thats just stupid lettering on the international hair coloring labeling system. For the 22 years I have been a stylist/colorist M= mahogany. Matt would be an effect of an ash color in the light not an actual color. What line are we talking about that refers to a capital M=matt per chance?