Koleston Special Blondes

[Ioana01]

Hi guys,

I am considering to use wella koleston special blonde as alternative to bleach for roots, but since I haven’t tried these so far I kindly ask your advice. I am a young professional, and have a client with natural 7, and need to get her to 10, or even slightly more considering that she was previously bleached and tonned with Wella Illumina 10/69 on length. would special blonde work fo the roots, or do I still need to continue with bleach? One friend told me that even though I would use 40vol for koleston special blonde, I would still get orange-ish instead of pale yellow level of lift, as I need.. is that true? Is it a combination in this range that could help me lift efficiently? I heard that this could help but don’t know if it’s good.. 12/0 & 12/81 & 12/96.
Thank you for support!

 

[Ioana01]

Hello, need your support hopefully until Monday.. your advice is highly appreciated!

 

[AcidPerm]

If you want a cool blonde tone, highlifts don’t work so well on anything darker than an 8 so you’re better off lifting with bleach and low vol developer followed by a toner.

 

[Ioana01]

Thank you! That was my worry, but was hoping to get rid of bleach..

 

[ronray]

Thank you! That was my worry, but was hoping to get rid of bleach..

I find that 12/89 is usually the cleanest lift I can get with highlife, I find that 12/81 leaves too much of hue and never looks as light as 12/89. What strength developer are you using with your bleach?

 

[Ioana01]

Hi, for bleach on the roots only 20 vol. For Koleston special Id use 40 vol.
Im going to risk with koleston special blonde as the client doesn’t want bleach anymore..
Thanks

 

[ronray]

Hi, for bleach on the roots only 20 vol. For Koleston special Id use 40 vol.
Im going to risk with koleston special blonde as the client doesn’t want bleach anymore..
Thanks

What is it about the bleach that the client doesn't like anymore?

 

[Ioana01]

The aspect of the hair, and that it becomes too dry vs. dye, and that she needs to cut it more often, but she wants length.. she would like to stop using bleach for future and she is willing to wait for it to grow.. I know that 40vol is still agressive, but I think it would still leave the hair in better condition than bleach, wouldn’t it?

 

[AcidPerm]

The aspect of the hair, and that it becomes too dry vs. dye, and that she needs to cut it more often, but she wants length.. she would like to stop using bleach for future and she is willing to wait for it to grow.. I know that 40vol is still agressive, but I think it would still leave the hair in better condition than bleach, wouldn’t it?

Nope. Think about how the colour process works.

 

[ronray]

The aspect of the hair, and that it becomes too dry vs. dye, and that she needs to cut it more often, but she wants length.. she would like to stop using bleach for future and she is willing to wait for it to grow.. I know that 40vol is still agressive, but I think it would still leave the hair in better condition than bleach, wouldn’t it?

Could you try a lower developer with your bleach, I have a lady who is naturally a 6, I use blondor and pastel and leave for 45 minutes and then tone with CT 10/0+10/6 +1.9% and its a beautiful colour!. Do you have access to olaplex? This is a miracle worker for clients who want to grow their hair.

 

[Ioana01]

Do you mean olaplex when bleaching, or olaplex for the client at home for clients that want to grow their hair?
I used olaplex once in bleach, and I think I left it less than it should have.. with 40% developer on length, does it mean its strength would be less, like a 30% result, or does it only need to stay more than usual to get same results?

 

[ronray]

Do you mean olaplex when bleaching, or olaplex for the client at home for clients that want to grow their hair?
I used olaplex once in bleach, and I think I left it less than it should have.. with 40% developer on length, does it mean its strength would be less, like a 30% result, or does it only need to stay more than usual to get same results?

Olaplex has changed their mixing ratios now, so you don't need as much in your mix, which in turn means you don't need to increase the developer or the development time. You can add it to the bleach after mixing, before you apply to the scalp, or you can just bleach the root as normal then do a stand alone treatment after (what I prefer to do).
If the client is serious about growing her hair then do olaplex with the colour and she could by the take home olaplex no 3 as maintenance.

 

[Ioana01]

Thanks a lot, will look for the new olaplex!!

 

[Hayleyhair]

I would use olaplex if you can in bleach.., sometimes I think using 12% with highlights are just as bad as bleach and 6%... you could alternate both that give a lovely natural blonde .. I’ve been having 12.89 and bleach on my hair for 20 Years!! I won’t change it as everyone comments on it. (I do use olaplex now though)

 

[Hayleyhair]

Sorry I’m talking about highlighting don’t think you were

 

[jamiereid92]

Like everyone else has said if you want that super light blonde you need bleach, highlift will look warm next to the bleached hair.

If you are just bleaching the roots it shouldn't damage the rest of her hair.

 

[Hannsh]

For a one-off application I can see how bleach and a low peroxide is less damaging than a highlift and 12. However, overlap is inevitable so putting bleach over already bleached hair, where the lifting won’t stop, will only disintegrate the already bleached hair. Highlifts at least have a kind of buffer that I feel safeguards the hair i.e. it won’t lift too much on already tinted hair if it overlaps (which is unavoidable). For clients needing roots done every 4-6 I never use bleach.

 

[Ioana01]

I tried to lift with a combination of 12 from koleston perfect and 12% on a natural 7 base, and it turned out 10ish only.. I was expecting it to get a little more than for e.g. 10/69+12% from wella illumina which turns to a nice color, and pretty much same level of lift. I used proper mix reco, proper time..

Since I cannot do anything to her roots without bleach, she decided to move to 10 level full hair.. and here my problems start

Since the rest of the hair is bleached, it needs pre-pig in order to get to a 10 from a 12 level bleach. I only did once a pre-pig for a similar case with indola /33 1:1water, left it 10 min and applied 10/69 full hair, but it didn’t come out as expected.. it still looked like bleached hair that absorbed the violet-pearl reflex..

When I got my diploma, they were speaking really briefly about pre-pig, which level needs which color, (yellow in my case) and so many products now (mousse, liquids, pre-pig solution already available) but I really don’t know how to make this efficient with my client.. I failed once and don’t really know why, probably I should have used a low developer instead of water.. do you have any advice for me? Need to mention that products in my country are quite limited, so if anything from wella which I am familiar with (no color id/charm available)..

How would you proceed if your client wants to go from 12 to 10, natural roots growth 7?

Thanks in advance for your kind support!

 

[AcidPerm]

Ordinarily, you pre-pig when dropping more than 2 levels.
However, you shouldn’t need to pre-pig dropping from 12 to 10 as the hair isn’t really a level 12. It’s not actually lifted beyond pale yellow (10) so using 10/69 on its own should be fine.
They call them highlift and give them higher numbers to distinguish between normal tint and tints that have added lighteners in them.

 

[Ioana01]

Thank you for your reply!

I tried before in this kind of situation with 10/69 on the roots to lift a level 7&12%, and on the length with 10/69, but since the hair is bleached, it only takes the /69 and then I have different roots than length.. and after ~2 washes it looks lighter than 10 as it’s bleached..
does it make sense to try with 9/03 + 3% developer on length before and then apply 10/69..?
Thank you!