Orange hair

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stella1981

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Hi guys, I really need help on this one. I have a client that I’ve done a balayage on but hasn’t lifted that well. I’m working on box colours of a level 3/4 but the blonde has lifted very warm as you can imagine with build up.My problem is she’s a base 6 and wants the tint to come down darker. I’m going to use 5/1 as she wants a flat brown but was wondering what method to use in mid length and ends as she keeps saying it orange.. it is a very warm blonde about an 8/3 and don’t think it’s very flattering. I was going to try a root application with 5/1 & 6% then smudge the ends with 7/81 illumina but can it be used with 3%?? Any ideas would be awesome, I’m freaking out! x
 
You normally use either CT Emulsion or Welloxon Pastel developer with Illumina as Wella doesn’t have a 3%.

With a build up of box dye you’d have been better off using a colour reducer then bleach for the balayage afterwards.
Depending on how orange it is, you might need to bleach it a bit more because otherwise, I think the 7/81 will be too dark and not enough of a contrast to the 5. Don’t forget that the colours on the chart are achieved when applying to neutralised level 10 hair, so it won’t look the same if your starting point is darker.

Also, what’s your plan for ongoing maintenance as she’s going to have a band of contrasting colour when the roots grow? When doing the initial consultation, it’s a good idea to think towards the next appointment and offer some options, particularly when the client has a darker root drag with balayage.
 
That’s for your reply! Ive never used a colour reducer before! Normally just bleach and tone ☹️Would you just tone as normal on damp hair?? I shampooed with purple shampoo and she said it was better it’s on a level 8 I think 8/3.[emoji37]
 
Hi, what kind of contrast is your client looking for??
To be honest to make I would explain that due to the build up of the box colours the desired result will be a working progress as not to over process the ends ( with continual bleaching) and just tone the ends with an intense ash, agree I wouldn’t take it down to a 7 as like you say not enough contrast, I would do an 8, I don’t use wells so can’t advice a tone but the ashiest 1 you can find if it’s that orange and like you say do roots with you 5 an depending on amount of regrowth if more balayage hilights are not needed smudge to give a soft finish and tone with ash on ends...... I always use a semi/semi as toners as the take and last well!
Then you can build on the end colour with each colour service till you Archive the exact colour and tone she’s after..... sometimes clients want the the in achievable and we just have to tell them they can’t have it straight away [emoji38]
Hope I’ve been of some help [emoji1303]
Gd luck [emoji4]
 

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