Recipe for Koleston chocolate brown?

[blackkitten]

So I need a recipe for Wella Chocolate brown. My client's hair at the moment is a level 4 (when dyed it was a level 3 but it has faded since then, being that the last time I colored it was over 2 months ago).

Basically what she is wanting is Nina Dobrev chocolate brown.

Picture here:

I think that 6/77 might be too light, but on the same token 4/77 looks too dark (level 4 is Nina's base level). Would 5/77 be the best bet, or is there a better recipe that I can formulate?

Any help would be much appreciative.

Thank you! <3

 

[Leila1712]

Yes the /77 are GORGEOUS ! The 4/77 is kind of dark though .. I would do 5/77 or 5/07 is really nice too!

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[blackkitten]

That's what I am thinking too. I was really hoping that 5/77 wouldn't be too light, because she is adamant for Nina's color, lol. I think she might have highlights in her hair too (Nina). And I think that might just be a shade lighter than her base color there.

I looked at the 5/07, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough warmth there? I am thinking no on the level 4, because upon looking at the swatch, that color is R E A L L Y dark, and I am afraid it would appear too severe.

Or I could do a mix of 5/77 with 5/07, maybe two parts of one, one part of the other? I suppose now I need advise on what color those highlights might be.

Thank you so much for answering. (;

 

[Leila1712]

That's what I am thinking too. I was really hoping that 5/77 wouldn't be too light, because she is adamant for Nina's color, lol. I think she might have highlights in her hair too (Nina). And I think that might just be a shade lighter than her base color there.

I looked at the 5/07, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough warmth there? I am thinking no on the level 4, because upon looking at the swatch, that color is R E A L L Y dark, and I am afraid it would appear too severe.

Or I could do a mix of 5/77 with 5/07, maybe two parts of one, one part of the other? I suppose now I need advise on what color those highlights might be.

Thank you so much for answering. (;

Yea i would mix them.. I do that a lot with 5/77 and 4/07 but you should use with 5/07... Here in montreal we do a lot of something call tone on tone.. Something like that ( sorry my english im french lol ) basicly i would do foils with very low developer and bleach and then rinse and dry and apply color allover evrything.. Highlights come out a shade lighter or so and creates a really nice natural look and adds some light in the hair.. I dunno if tou guys have an actual name for it .. Am just trying to translate from the french name we use hehe

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[Leila1712]

And BTW the /07 have a nice warmth to it.. Not ALOT like the /77 but if applied on a level 4 base it does have warmth to it.. And if her hair i coloured to a base 4 i would do the tone to tone described above.. Happens a lot to me because most my clients are dark based and want a bit lighter hope it helps a little bit!

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[blackkitten]

Actually that makes perfect sense. I truly appreciate your help. =D I will let you know how it turns out! <3

 

[blackkitten]

Oh I was going to ask. Since I am going to do tone on tone, what would you recommend for the highlights? Just maybe a shade lighter?

 

[Leila1712]

Oh I was going to ask. Since I am going to do tone on tone, what would you recommend for the highlights? Just maybe a shade lighter?

Hi hun lets say she is a level 4 i would pre lighten the high lights to a level 6 or 7 undertone ( depending if you want the highlights to show more or less ) and then apply the 5/77 5/07 mix allover the hair

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[Leila1712]

I would really like a picture before and after to see how it turned out i think it will be lovely

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[blackkitten]

Hi hun lets say she is a level 4 i would pre lighten the high lights to a level 6 or 7 undertone ( depending if you want the highlights to show more or less ) and then apply the 5/77 5/07 mix allover the hair

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That definitely sounds like a plan. And I will be sure to send you a B and A picture. You have no idea how much you helped me. I have been tossing around ideas for the last three days, and this definitely helped!

 

[Leila1712]

That definitely sounds like a plan. And I will be sure to send you a B and A picture. You have no idea how much you helped me. I have been tossing around ideas for the last three days, and this definitely helped!

Im really glad I could help! I am no super expert like some on these forums but I can only speak from experience of doing it very excited to see how it comes out.. Keep me posted

 

[sbbbjm]

i feel like the /7's and /77's look great after the first couple of shampoos, but after that they fade extremely red. on my screen, the picture looks more like a neutral to slightly cool brown. she looks like a Wella 6/0 or 6/01 swatch to me.

with that in mind i would lighten the highlights to a level 8, so you're out of orange territory for the most part.

then, since Wella tends to go a level darker and previously colored hair pulls color drabber, i would tone with 6/71. i would apply to damp hair and let sit for the full 15 min.

 

[Leila1712]

i feel like the /7's and /77's look great after the first couple of shampoos, but after that they fade extremely red. on my screen, the picture looks more like a neutral to slightly cool brown. she looks like a Wella 6/0 or 6/01 swatch to me.

with that in mind i would lighten the highlights to a level 8, so you're out of orange territory for the most part.

then, since Wella tends to go a level darker and previously colored hair pulls color drabber, i would tone with 6/71. i would apply to damp hair and let sit for the full 15 min.

Hum i have never had that issue and i have quite a few clients with the 6/77
And yes! I too find wella to go a level darker.. ! As for pre lightening the highlights to an 8 would you be better off going with a closer pre lighten undertone to the target shade? As if its a level 5 or 6 on a level 8 wont it fade a lot faster? The initial result would probably look better but wouldnt it fade really quickly with shampoos?

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[blackkitten]

So in your opinion, do you think that level 4 would be too dark? Like does it look more black than dark brown? I actually got to looking at the swatches more, and it appears that the /77 is pretty red, so I liked the idea of the /7, because it wasn't as red. I am really trying to do the chocolate without a lot of the red. So I was thinking doing 4/07 and with highlights of around a 7/03 range. What do you think? I really don't fancy the idea of using bleach on her hair. But if I have to go that route I will. Her hair is in excellent condition, deep conditions twice a week with Unite products. Now I am trying to find the perfect chocolate recipe, and just wind up getting really confused, LOL. I want to add in another picture so you can see her highlights better.

I think it being straight shows the highlights much better. In an article, it says that Nina's hair color base is a level 4, and her stylist uses the same products that I am using for my client, which is Koleston. At the moment my client's hair color is a level 4, colored about three months ago. She doesn't have a lot of roots that have come in, because her natural color is close to that that was colored.

So what do you think?

 

[sbbbjm]

Hum i have never had that issue and i have quite a few clients with the 6/77
And yes! I too find wella to go a level darker.. ! As for pre lightening the highlights to an 8 would you be better off going with a closer pre lighten undertone to the target shade? As if its a level 5 or 6 on a level 8 wont it fade a lot faster? The initial result would probably look better but wouldnt it fade really quickly with shampoos?

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i shouldve prefaced my reply with ...

brassy orange is a really hard underlying pigment to neutralize. why do i know this? all of the women in my family have neutral brown highlights, and we are all natural level 2-3. in my experience, when a client (or someone in my fam) shows me a picture of a neutral to ash brown, that's usually the number one thing they liked about it. it was straight up brown with no orange/red tones .....

so with that in mind, if i can lift out as much red/orange in the process, it can't be a bad thing that was my logic.

 

[Eviestyle]

So in your opinion, do you think that level 4 would be too dark? Like does it look more black than dark brown? I actually got to looking at the swatches more, and it appears that the /77 is pretty red, so I liked the idea of the /7, because it wasn't as red. I am really trying to do the chocolate without a lot of the red. So I was thinking doing 4/07 and with highlights of around a 7/03 range. What do you think? I really don't fancy the idea of using bleach on her hair. But if I have to go that route I will. Her hair is in excellent condition, deep conditions twice a week with Unite products. Now I am trying to find the perfect chocolate recipe, and just wind up getting really confused, LOL. I want to add in another picture so you can see her highlights better.

I think it being straight shows the highlights much better. In an article, it says that Nina's hair color base is a level 4, and her stylist uses the same products that I am using for my client, which is Koleston. At the moment my client's hair color is a level 4, colored about three months ago. She doesn't have a lot of roots that have come in, because her natural color is close to that that was colored.

So what do you think?

4/07 is pretty. I would use 6 and 7 together to tone your highlights. And I eould use a lot of ash.

 

[Leila1712]

So in your opinion, do you think that level 4 would be too dark? Like does it look more black than dark brown? I actually got to looking at the swatches more, and it appears that the /77 is pretty red, so I liked the idea of the /7, because it wasn't as red. I am really trying to do the chocolate without a lot of the red. So I was thinking doing 4/07 and with highlights of around a 7/03 range. What do you think? I really don't fancy the idea of using bleach on her hair. But if I have to go that route I will. Her hair is in excellent condition, deep conditions twice a week with Unite products. Now I am trying to find the perfect chocolate recipe, and just wind up getting really confused, LOL. I want to add in another picture so you can see her highlights better.

I think it being straight shows the highlights much better. In an article, it says that Nina's hair color base is a level 4, and her stylist uses the same products that I am using for my client, which is Koleston. At the moment my client's hair color is a level 4, colored about three months ago. She doesn't have a lot of roots that have come in, because her natural color is close to that that was colored.

So what do you think?

4/07 is dark... Remember that with wella it always seems a bit darker in the hair.. I would go with 5/07.. But if you are not looking for any warmth at all in the base than i do believe you should use something more neutral as under level 4 has lots of warmth when it will lift. But to me nina has quite some warmth.. I was the vampire diaries and i dont find her hair to be an ash color at all..



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[blackkitten]

4/07 is dark... Remember that with wella it always seems a bit darker in the hair.. I would go with 5/07.. But if you are not looking for any warmth at all in the base than i do believe you should use something more neutral as under level 4 has lots of warmth when it will lift. But to me nina has quite some warmth.. I was the vampire diaries and i dont find her hair to be an ash color at all..

I think you are right, because ash is basically the opposite of the red and gold tones. But I see in her highlights the caramel there, which a true caramel has gold in it. But I do know that her base is pretty dark. I am going to go ahead with the level 5, and if it's too light (which I don't think it will be) I will go with the level 4. thank you very much for all of your suggestions. =D

 

[Xxlindsaymxx]

Wellas ash always seems darker what about making a 5/17? Tint and then I depending on the base if it is really dark usually do either 10/0 12% meche or even 12/0 if it is dark enough and they give out a lovely caramel tone

 

[Leila1712]

Wellas ash always seems darker what about making a 5/17? Tint and then I depending on the base if it is really dark usually do either 10/0 12% meche or even 12/0 if it is dark enough and they give out a lovely caramel tone

I wonder why all the ash colors from wella always go darker.. If i want a level i always do 2 parts of 7 and 1 part of 6 and i get a level 6 result.. Lol

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