Wella Koleston

[HannyO]

Hi, can someone help me out as no one I've asked seems to know the answer. What is the least damaging for a root touch up. Wella highlift 12/81 with 9% for a 3 level lift or wella 10/86 with 12% for a 3 level lift? Assuming we are starting with a base 7 or 8 so 3 levels are all that's required.

 

[AcidPerm]

Bleach with 3%.

 

[HannyO]

Bleach with 3%.

Thanks. Not what I asked though. I want to know the answer to which is least damaging out of using a level 10 with 12% which is obviously 1:1, or a highlift with 9% 1:2. I'm guessing the level 10 but would like it confirmed.

 

[AcidPerm]

If you’re worried about damage then bleach with 3% is obviously much less damaging.
I rarely use 12% unless I have to. You do understand how peroxide works?
Whether you use 10 or a 12, it’s no different in terms of how it affects the cuticle layer.
A 12 will contain slightly less colour pigment compared to a 10 but will contain added lightener.

 

[HannyO]

If you’re worried about damage then bleach with 3% is obviously much less damaging.
I rarely use 12% unless I have to. You do understand how peroxide works?
Whether you use 10 or a 12, it’s no different in terms of how it affects the cuticle layer.
A 12 will contain slightly less colour pigment compared to a 10 but will contain added lightener.

It was merely a conversation between colleagues that made me want to ask the question as no one seemed to know the answer. Yes of course I understand how peroxide works. I also understand bleach and 3% would be less damaging than those I mentioned but that isn't what I wanted to know.

However, a level 10 IS different to using a 12 high lift as wella high lifts contain more ammonia so actually do affect the cuticle layer more than a 10 as it opens it up more, and using it with 9% would lift 3 shades rather than 12% which lifts 4-5 shades depending..

So all I wanted to know if it would be less damaging using a highlift and 9% rather than using a level 10 with 12%. As you still get the 3 shade lift and there is less ammonia in the level 10. Basically which is the most damaging, stronger peroxide or more ammonia?

 

[ronray]

It was merely a conversation between colleagues that made me want to ask the question as no one seemed to know the answer. Yes of course I understand how peroxide works. I also understand bleach and 3% would be less damaging than those I mentioned but that isn't what I wanted to know.

However, a level 10 IS different to using a 12 high lift as wella high lifts contain more ammonia so actually do affect the cuticle layer more than a 10 as it opens it up more, and using it with 9% would lift 3 shades rather than 12% which lifts 4-5 shades depending..

So all I wanted to know if it would be less damaging using a highlift and 9% rather than using a level 10 with 12%. As you still get the 3 shade lift and there is less ammonia in the level 10. Basically which is the most damaging, stronger peroxide or more ammonia?

I would say the highlift with 9% is probably still more aggressive than 10 with 12%.
But to be honest colours and developers affect different hair types in different ways.

 

[HannyO]

I would say the highlift with 9% is probably still more aggressive than 10 with 12%.
But to be honest colours and developers affect different hair types in different ways.

Thank you. It's what I was thinking too.

 

[AcidPerm]

It was merely a conversation between colleagues that made me want to ask the question as no one seemed to know the answer. ... I also understand bleach and 3% would be less damaging than those I mentioned but that isn't what I wanted to know...Basically which is the most damaging, stronger peroxide or more ammonia?

That’s the difficulty with posting short questions lacking detail. I focussed on the issue of a root touch up but if you’d provided the additional context to your original question, I would have given a different answer.

 

[HannyO]

That’s the difficulty with posting short questions lacking detail. I focussed on the issue of a root touch up but if you’d provided the additional context to your original question, I would have given a different answer.

My apologies. I should have written in more detail to begin with. So what would your opinion be?

 

[AcidPerm]

I’d say the highlift was probably more damaging as it contains additional ammonia with the lightener.