BettyBlack
Member
I have a basic idea of how/when to break the base, but am always looking to see other professionals techniques....your thoughts? Your breaking the base technique?
Any tips on breaking the base?
- Thread starter BettyBlack
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sarah_clancy
Well-Known Member
What do you mean breaking the base? I'm confused! xx
Bluerinse
Well-Known Member
Something American?
classixuk
Well-Known Member
Breaking the base is a popular technique in America to diffuse the line between highlights and the natural growth.
Basically, after removing the highlights at the backwash and before conditioning you mix a small amount of a flat level 10 colour and apply it very quickly to the root area leaving it for no more than 4 or 5 minutes to get half a level of lift at the roots on the natural colour.
It's used mostly when there is a large contrast between the highlights and the natural base, say bleach highlights on a flat level 4 colour. It ends up looking more like a slightly warm level 5 with highlights which is obviously more aesthetically pleasing.
A few years ago Goldwell brought out a product in the UK to do this, though I can't remember what it was called.
Personally I just apply a tint in between the foils so I can control exactly what the end result will look like, but I guess that someone somewhere had really cheap clients who wanted the result without spending the cash.
For those of you old enough to remember cap highlights under heat we used to see a similar result on the hair that was 'inside the cap' at the roots. The fumes would literally lift your level 5 by half a level and reveal a small amount of underlying pigment.
Basically, after removing the highlights at the backwash and before conditioning you mix a small amount of a flat level 10 colour and apply it very quickly to the root area leaving it for no more than 4 or 5 minutes to get half a level of lift at the roots on the natural colour.
It's used mostly when there is a large contrast between the highlights and the natural base, say bleach highlights on a flat level 4 colour. It ends up looking more like a slightly warm level 5 with highlights which is obviously more aesthetically pleasing.
A few years ago Goldwell brought out a product in the UK to do this, though I can't remember what it was called.
Personally I just apply a tint in between the foils so I can control exactly what the end result will look like, but I guess that someone somewhere had really cheap clients who wanted the result without spending the cash.
For those of you old enough to remember cap highlights under heat we used to see a similar result on the hair that was 'inside the cap' at the roots. The fumes would literally lift your level 5 by half a level and reveal a small amount of underlying pigment.
Breaking the base is a popular technique in America to diffuse the line between highlights and the natural growth.
Basically, after removing the highlights at the backwash and before conditioning you mix a small amount of a flat level 10 colour and apply it very quickly to the root area leaving it for no more than 4 or 5 minutes to get half a level of lift at the roots on the natural colour.
It's used mostly when there is a large contrast between the highlights and the natural base, say bleach highlights on a flat level 4 colour. It ends up looking more like a slightly warm level 5 with highlights which is obviously more aesthetically pleasing.
A few years ago Goldwell brought out a product in the UK to do this, though I can't remember what it was called.
Personally I just apply a tint in between the foils so I can control exactly what the end result will look like, but I guess that someone somewhere had really cheap clients who wanted the result without spending the cash.
For those of you old enough to remember cap highlights under heat we used to see a similar result on the hair that was 'inside the cap' at the roots. The fumes would literally lift your level 5 by half a level and reveal a small amount of underlying pigment.
Lol old enough to do cap."? I still get older clients asking for cap xoxo
Thiago
Well-Known Member
And it's call new blonde by goldwell it leave highlights looking more natural
Bluerinse
Well-Known Member
Surely instead of "toning" highlights down when they are too light, maybe just don't lift them so much in the first place? And instead of "breaking" the base.... Offer a more natural colour method ? #justsaying
classixuk
Well-Known Member
I don't think you're understanding the point of it guys lol. It's one of those quick add on services for clients who see their roots every 3 weeks but have no time for highlights every 3 weeks.
If you break the base on the day of having the highlights the client can return every 2 weeks for a blow dry and have her base broken at the backwash (takes 5 minutes) so it's almost like she never has roots.
It works surprisingly well on the type of client who has say natural level 6 or 7 hair and a full head of highlights.
Here in the UK though we would be more inclined to foil and then flood with a Demi on the day of the service.
Think about it more like this:
Client comes in with level 7 hair. You mix a 10.1 with 3% and apply it very quickly all over her hair. You wash it off after 5 minutes and tell her: "this is your new base colour". You then get on with putting her bleached foils in.
After 2 weeks when her roots start to show you can mix 10.1 with 3% and apply to her hairline and part for 5 minutes before shampooing for her blow dry. It will match the base colour you did previously.
Hope that makes sense!
If you break the base on the day of having the highlights the client can return every 2 weeks for a blow dry and have her base broken at the backwash (takes 5 minutes) so it's almost like she never has roots.
It works surprisingly well on the type of client who has say natural level 6 or 7 hair and a full head of highlights.
Here in the UK though we would be more inclined to foil and then flood with a Demi on the day of the service.
Think about it more like this:
Client comes in with level 7 hair. You mix a 10.1 with 3% and apply it very quickly all over her hair. You wash it off after 5 minutes and tell her: "this is your new base colour". You then get on with putting her bleached foils in.
After 2 weeks when her roots start to show you can mix 10.1 with 3% and apply to her hairline and part for 5 minutes before shampooing for her blow dry. It will match the base colour you did previously.
Hope that makes sense!
NiCshairstudio
Well-Known Member
I personally do get the point and its very interesting, buuuut what would you charge for this say every 2 week quick colour when the aim was to not spend so much?
They may as well deal with the lighter colour (should they chose to ignore your advise about level differences etc) and with the money they are saving keep their every 6 - 8 week slot, or have a shade lighter tone through the rest to soften the root. Rather than create another reason for your customers to spend money every 2 weeks? Wen the aim was to save?
My ladies who mention this I am going to do a mini survey for my own mind and mention this and see the reaction, but personally I advise fine hl, and every so often have a more natural or medium blond through even if just right on the parting area (just underneath the too foil) around a 6 or 7 base level just to soften it enough, and it works, my clients are happy anyway
most don't moan though as they take my advise hehe. It's an interesting take though
classixuk
Well-Known Member
I personally do get the point and its very interesting, buuuut what would you charge for this say every 2 week quick colour when the aim was to not spend so much?
They may as well deal with the lighter colour (should they chose to ignore your advise about level differences etc) and with the money they are saving keep their every 6 - 8 week slot, or have a shade lighter tone through the rest to soften the root. Rather than create another reason for your customers to spend money every 2 weeks? Wen the aim was to save?
My ladies who mention this I am going to do a mini survey for my own mind and mention this and see the reaction, but personally I advise fine hl, and every so often have a more natural or medium blond through even if just right on the parting area (just underneath the too foil) around a 6 or 7 base level just to soften it enough, and it works, my clients are happy anyway
It's an interesting take though
Charge about 1/3 of what you would for their highlights. e.g. Client currently comes to you every 6 weeks for her highlights, cut and blow. You charge £70 for the highlights and £30 for her cut and blow. Offer to break her base every 2 weeks for £22 plus the cost of a blowdry and that way she'll never have roots at all - it's more for time poor clients rather than cash poor clients.
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NiCshairstudio
Well-Known Member
Charge about 1/3 of what you would for their highlights. e.g. Client currently comes to you every 6 weeks for her highlights, cut and blow. You charge £70 for the highlights and £30 for her cut and blow. Offer to break her base every 2 weeks for £22 plus the cost of a blowdry and that way she'll never have roots at all - it's more for time poor clients rather than cash poor clients.
So how often do they then decide to have the foils again, as surely this can only work for so long otherwise they are always having roots, from the breaking the base rather than the highlights? I still think the all through the foils with a shade or 2 lighter would be better, I'm not being convinced this technique will take off over hear, I may eat my words though lol.
Thiago
Well-Known Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvAFNbPtSoQ check it out
Same here, and I don't quite think many clients would be impressed with having to spend the extra every 2 weeks and have highlights every 6. Xoxo
NiCshairstudio
Well-Known Member
Well say they're looking at 35 per 2 weeks and every 8 say they're foils, that's a lot of money, I thought we were just coming out a recession lol. So this is some very well off customers that would afford this and be able to keep it up lol. I feel sorry for their husbands as this has to be more aimed at the lady of leisure rather than the business woman lol
Thiago
Well-Known Member
It look nice tho look very natural
NiCshairstudio
Well-Known Member
It does look natural, however, how does it know exactly where to work. I.e. the unprocessed hair like it says? ? A hair is a hair to a product, so if applied over the highlighted hair at backwash root to midlengths thus meaning over the highlighted area (even at 2 weeks)?
Thiago
Well-Known Member
I have no idea hahaha it's weird but as it say on the video it should work
Could give it ago tho as it look nice I will try to buy it online and try on my
Best friend xD
