Facials

[VICKYBROOKES]

Know what you mean hun! Seems daft toning so much but think the reason we were taught to do that is because even after you have taken your cleanser, exfoliater. mask etc off with sponges it is just to make sure all of the residue is off. :hug:

oh right , i was told not to over tone due to it being to harsh on the skin especially if its normal skin due to the astringent being to drying . Also to tighten the skin and balance moisture levels is this right ? im fairly new to all this reall still as i only completed my course last yr .

 

[Fay]

hey vicki

no i dont make it myself its part of the brand i use but its really really nice its a very fine spray which you spritz into the air over the client at the end of the facial smells gorgeous very citrusy:green:!! It also works really well as a way of letting them know the facial is coming to an end or even wake them up if theyve dozed off!!:green: xxxx

 

[VICKYBROOKES]

hey vicki

no i dont make it myself its part of the brand i use but its really really nice its a very fine spray which you spritz into the air over the client at the end of the facial smells gorgeous very citrusy:green:!! It also works really well as a way of letting them know the facial is coming to an end or even wake them up if theyve dozed off!!:green: xxxx

Sounds lovely fay ! what brand is it may i ask ?

 

[Fay]

Pure Fiji! its not aswell known as the huge brands but they have amazing products:green: xxx

 

[crystaltash]

So if you do the massage at the end? When do you moisturise? After the massage? Would you wipe the oil off?
xxx

 

[gigglymushroom]

Hi crystaltash,

Im massaging with essential oils so I will blot the skin well so that its not got any residue left but if i was using massage oil i would wipe of with some rose water and then apply a light moisturiser if the skin needed it.
xxxGigglyxxx

 

[crystaltash]

Hi crystaltash,

Im massaging with essential oils so I will blot the skin well so that its not got any residue left but if i was using massage oil i would wipe of with some rose water and then apply a light moisturiser if the skin needed it.
xxxGigglyxxx

Cool, thanks Giggly.Got a few facials in tomorrow so I might try them the new way and see how I get on. I have to say I never thought about it before, but it makes perfect sense!!

xxxxx

 

[MDove]

we do (I teach)

analyze, cleanse under steam, Enzyme Peel, extraction, massage, mask, moisturize

if there are alot of extractions that need to be done and the pores are very tight, many times a massage before extractions can help "lube up' the follicles for extractions to follow.
Chemical Peels are always done after massage and degreasing with astringent to remove all the oils prior to applying the acids.

I know that every Esthetician pretty much develops her own routine after awhile.

Marion
Aesthetician Group - Message Board - Yuku

 

[Martin Duffy]

we do (I teach)

analyze, cleanse under steam, Enzyme Peel, extraction, massage, mask, moisturize

Out of interest, further to earlier posts on the subject, do you have any opinion on the use of masks after massage, i.e. as most massage mediums are oil based they saturate the skin with lipids, thus making it nigh on impossible for many water soluble active ingredients contained in active masks to penetrate the skin? I put a link to the article earlier in the thread.

 

[MDove]

"as most massage mediums are oil based they saturate the skin with lipids, thus making it nigh on impossible for many water soluble active ingredients contained in active masks to penetrate the skin?"

very true.
In fact I use Dr. Temts massage medium which is so occlusive, its impossible to penetrate because of its large molecules.
I.m.o. massage medium serves only one purpose: to give good slip for the massage. Its not meant to penetrate and it should be easy to remove which is best done with an astringent. Witch hazel for instance, or a BHA/AHA and alcohol solution if you're planning on doing a chemical Peel to lower the skin's pH.
(if you dont remove all the oils prior to a chemical peel, the acids will get neutralized before they even have a chance to work.)

A word about "active masks". Nothing can go beneath the epidermal layer.
If it would penetrate to the "live layer" or the dermis it could get into our blood stream and eventually harm us.
Also a mask only works while its on the face. Rinse it off, and its gone!
However.
Cleansing the face after a massage and using an astringent to wipe off the massage medium completely will help a mask do a better job for the 10 minutes or so, or however long you leave it on the face.

Marion
Aesthetician Group - Message Board - Yuku​

 

[weezie]

Essential oils and glycolic have been shown to penetrate into the blood stream so surely masks containing these can? :hug: Also the massage cream I use from Gerards contains a collagen or aha cream, essential oils and vegetable extracts so act as a treatment not just a massage medium. I would have thought if you need to use an astringent after the massage you are using the wrong skin care products. The essential oils are small enough particles to absorb and not to be occlusive and the collagen is water based. If someone has a dehydrated oily and congested skin I may do a deep cleansing mask and then the massage at the end so to give them the extra hydrating benefits after the intensive "drawing out" of oils by the clay mask.

Also I don't massage during a glycolic peel treatment I would use the pre-glycol solution (alcohol prep), glycolic acid, neutaliser then after use a glycol cream and sun protection as I don't market it as a "relaxing treatment" but more of a Cosmeceutical one.

 

[MDove]

Collagen in any topical form has way too large molecules to penetrate the skin.
Manufactures though can add ingredients to products, (masks ie) to stimulate the fibroblasts to help the skin produce its own Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic acid.
Thats the reason women have to get Collagen injected into the dermis.
Its no good in topical form.
Also any time we do "controlled damage" to the skin, like when doing a chemical Peel or MDA we're helping the skin to rebuild Collagen.

I would always be careful with EO's on the face, especially undiluted, as they can cause allergic reactions in some clients.

]"Delivery systems are it, in a nutshell," says Susan Weinkle, M.D., a dermatologist in Bradenton, Florida, and past president of the Women's Dermatologic Society. "Consumers are catching on to the idea that if an active ingredient can't penetrate into the skin, what good is it? Take collagen, for example. For years, companies touted collagen-rich products, saying that applying collagen would somehow stimulate more production of your own collagen, deep in the dermis. But collagen is such a big molecule it can't penetrate the skin's outer layer. And now that that's been shown through studies, we're seeing a lot less hype about collagen."

source:https://www.spafinder.com/archive/article.jsp?id=245

Marion
Aesthetician Group - Message Board - Yuku

 

[weezie]

The collagen cream would provide some benefits topically as it contains the ingredients potassium, sodium, aloe vera, citric acid and BHA's among other things so would hydrate and help further exfoliation (I should have explained better it's actually called Humydal but I call it collagen cream as it encourages collagen production, my mistake for not explaining better) . :hug: Don't worry the oils are mixed into the solution not used neat. I'm no scientist so just have to trust the skincare house I use and the results I see/feel.

I just like it as I remove it with water and it leaves no "greasy film". Don't worry it's not being "touted" as a miracle cream!

 

[Martin Duffy]

I think it's filtered to most therapists & consumers that topical collagen cannot replace lost collagen - I don't know anyone that believes this to be true. Collagen is put in most formulations because it's fantastic for binding water within the upper layers of the skin, able to hold many times its own weight in water, thus an excellent hydrating agent. I suspect this is what Weezie was speaking of?

Regarding essential oils in skincare, it goes without saying that undiluted use is a no-no. Those using pre-blended oils will have received proper training in their use, and aromatherapists like myself are more than aware of how they should/shouldn't be used.

 

[essentia]

I also think that most therapists know that collagen has too large molecules for penetrating the skin - I think that misconception comes from Doctors using collagen dressings for burns victims to provide the optimum medium for successful healing. Collagen is great for moisturisng and attracting water retention but does not work in isolation. The skin needs to be prompted into making and rebuilding its own collagen and this can be carried out with many stimulating skincare ingredients and treatments.

I do not think that when a mask is wiped off that it stops working either. Antioxidants can protect for a period of time such as Alpha Lipoic Acid, they are also excellent for calming and rebalancing after the facial. Some stimulating masks I have used I have felt the effects for quite a time afterwards. It does depend on the the brand of course.

 

[Klassy Klaws]

After reading all of these threads I am more confused than ever!
As I said in a earlier post I am doing a NVQ Level 2 and am feel the routine I am being taught at the moment is completely wrong

At no time during my classes has putting a mask on after a massage be spoken about the massage in my routine is followed by a tone then moisturise which going by the posts in this thread is wrong.

Looks like once I am qualified and have got the skin care company sorted out I will need to review my routine

 

[weezie]

After reading all of these threads I am more confused than ever!
As I said in a earlier post I am doing a NVQ Level 2 and am feel the routine I am being taught at the moment is completely wrong

At no time during my classes has putting a mask on after a massage be spoken about the massage in my routine is followed by a tone then moisturise which going by the posts in this thread is wrong.

Looks like once I am qualified and have got the skin care company sorted out I will need to review my routine

Don't worry, unfortunately this is the case with all training, it gives you basic ideas and knowledge and then you build on it through reading extra literature and skincare training from the company who provide the products you are using. Otherwise the course would not have time to cover everything as there is so much to learn about the skin and product efficacy. :hug:

It's good that this has made you question your training and you will learn from it. :hug: