My usual (if not only) problem- bleach!

[wyates]

So I have been posting quite a bit over the last week about bleach. This is really not my strong side. Well I can cope if the hair gets to a yellow tone and if the customer doesn't mind if it gets on a light scale anywhere between 8-9. But if wants lighter, lets say 10 or 11 it always tends to get wrong when I do it!
I do not know what I do wrong

I have tried different methods with the bleach (like bleach with higher percent peroxide and less bleaches, bleach baths and more times, medium peroxide 6%) and I keep getting the same result!


Maybe I just don't know much about how to remove the yellow (and sometimes slightly orangeish tones)?
I always take a color that ends with a 1. But is there any other secret to remove yellowish/orangeish hair?

Right now I am doing a young lady's hair and it has turned yellowish and orangeish (50/50 of each and hair is on a light scale 9 approx, some small highlights are on a 10), both shades and we can't do more bleaches as hair is already in pretty bad shape, she has sensitive hair.

Any advice is highly appreciated!

 

[sarah_clancy]

What bleach are you using?
Maybe try weighing it, Ive been doin it for quite a while now... get really good results! 1 part bleach 2 part peroxide.
as for the warm tones... are you using a toner after doing the colour??
Also a good quality silver shampoo.
xox

 

[wyates]

Hi,
Thanks for reply.
We're using Goldwell bleach.
Not sure whether to go with semi or permanent dye, usually go for the last. But her hair is so fragile and worn out now so thinking about just taking a semi this time.
There must be some trick more than to take an ash tone to cover the yellow.
(And meanwhile between treatments customer uses Matrix so silver.)

 

[craigkeane]

are you leaving it on for the full development time? goldwell is a good product.


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

 

[wyates]

are you leaving it on for the full development time? goldwell is a good product.


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

Yes I am but the orange (and yellow as well) won't lift, it is like it is stuck like glue to the hair, very stubborn pigment, she mentioned she had uses the new Syoss hairdye and also Live XXL previously (both red...).
I don't see what else I can do to get the orange color out of the hair? Nothing really happens now, the last bleach lifted just a tiny wee bit and that was with 9%.
The first two treatments lifted fine but now :cry:
Please help!
Also Craig, can you please recommend what color to take on the hair (if I now manage to lift some more of the orange out)?
You seem to have quite much knowledge about dye (saw some of your previous replies).
Thanks

 

[craigkeane]

got 2.options! i never use.30vol with bleach i can find it.doesn't.work as well! 20vol is slower to lift but more controlling. so it can leave the blonde fresh. but if the base is 5 or below i will always use 40 because i find.the Bleach can dry out i do always leave my Bleach on for 1 hr! always great results.

Relating to toning the best thing i could say is to have Look at the.goldwell colour wheel. its a great tool and easy to use! a toner i find works good is 9n and 11.13 leave you with lovely highlights

but have a look at the colour wheel its easy enough saying use this this and this but the answers are easy enough to find. this will be a good learning!


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

 

[30sharon]

Hi,
Thanks for reply.
We're using Goldwell bleach.
Not sure whether to go with semi or permanent dye, usually go for the last. But her hair is so fragile and worn out now so thinking about just taking a semi this time.
There must be some trick more than to take an ash tone to cover the yellow.
(And meanwhile between treatments customer uses Matrix so silver.)

if it goldwell bleach mix it 35mls of 6% with one scoop of powder and it will come up a lovely clean colour

 

[wyates]

got 2.options! i never use.30vol with bleach i can find it.doesn't.work as well! 20vol is slower to lift but more controlling. so it can leave the blonde fresh. but if the base is 5 or below i will always use 40 because i find.the Bleach can dry out i do always leave my Bleach on for 1 hr! always great results.

Relating to toning the best thing i could say is to have Look at the.goldwell colour wheel. its a great tool and easy to use! a toner i find works good is 9n and 11.13 leave you with lovely highlights

but have a look at the colour wheel its easy enough saying use this this and this but the answers are easy enough to find. this will be a good learning!


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

Do you reckon 11.13 will work when it's wella as well (we use Wella)?
Thanks for your help, will try the lower % peroxide and leave it for longer (I didnt leave for 1 hr, i left for 40 mins).

 

[wyates]

if it goldwell bleach mix it 35mls of 6% with one scoop of powder and it will come up a lovely clean colour

Thats what I did and left me with orange Now the orange has lifted a tiny wee bit but gosh, really this pastell clear orange:irked::cry:

 

[craigkeane]

the numbers are a universal code so the colours will be the same in any brand.if they are the same number. so yep!

that could be the main problem not leaving.it on long enough... Im not.100% but i think goldwell recommend 45mins development ... that extra 5 mins can do a lot!

let me know how it goes next time you try it!


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

 

[lauren89]

Hi,
Thanks for reply.
We're using Goldwell bleach.
Not sure whether to go with semi or permanent dye, usually go for the last. But her hair is so fragile and worn out now so thinking about just taking a semi this time.
There must be some trick more than to take an ash tone to cover the yellow.
(And meanwhile between treatments customer uses Matrix so silver.)

If it's yellow try toning with a violet instead of jus ash.

 

[wyates]

the numbers are a universal code so the colours will be the same in any brand.if they are the same number. so yep!

that could be the main problem not leaving.it on long enough... Im not.100% but i think goldwell recommend 45mins development ... that extra 5 mins can do a lot!

let me know how it goes next time you try it!


Craig Keane
www.hculture.co.uk

Surely it cant be that long development time when its correction of yellow/orange? Previously when correcting yellow tones it has been a matter of minutes and to watch the color develop closely as if left too long it will go either ashgrey or purple. I imagine with 40/45 mins it will be a very ugly color considering the starting stage being yellow/orange.

 

[wyates]

If it's yellow try toning with a violet instead of jus ash.

Hi,
How do I proceed when it is both orange and yellow?:Scared:

 

[lauren89]

is it patches or orange n yellow or orange roots yellow ends or yellow roots orange ends?

 

[Sammi74]

I always use goldwell bleach often with 3% pastel and if i leave it on long enough i still get a good lift, although to be sure of more lift i use 6%, i never tone and it always seems to get rid of the yellow, i've used cheaper bleach and always got yellow tones, i don't think i would use 40 vol with bleach though it's too harsh.

 

[Simba44]

If your using a goldwell i use 11nn or 11n with a 12%

 

[lauren89]

I always use goldwell bleach often with 3% pastel and if i leave it on long enough i still get a good lift, although to be sure of more lift i use 6%, i never tone and it always seems to get rid of the yellow, i've used cheaper bleach and always got yellow tones, i don't think i would use 40 vol with bleach though it's too harsh.

I agree bleacn and 12% is a big no no, and especially left on for 1hr

 

[wyates]

is it patches or orange n yellow or orange roots yellow ends or yellow roots orange ends?

The roots (only 0.5centimeters are yellowish) but rest is pretty much a pastell orange, have never seen anything like it before, it is light but still the orange quite intense!?
She came by just today to show it and it looks more orange than yesterday:Scared:
I feel so bad about this.
If I manage to get some of the orange away, would you use a semi or permanent tint over afterwards?

 

[wyates]

The roots (only 0.5centimeters are yellowish) but rest is pretty much a pastell orange, have never seen anything like it before, it is light but still the orange quite intense!?
She came by just today to show it and it looks more orange than yesterday:Scared:
I feel so bad about this.
If I manage to get some of the orange away, would you use a semi or permanent tint over afterwards?

Dont know if I am allowed to do this, but the color reminds of this color Resultat av Googles bildsökning efter http://grasshoppergrrl.files.wordpress.com/2010/04/orangehair1.jpg but 1 stage lighter

Also like this but lighter http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...page=1&ndsp=19&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=73&ty=41

 

[lauren89]

I've jus re-read the thread, I'm not suprised it's gone like that, Live xxl is a bugger to get out.
What were you aiming for?

Personally I'd take her down a few levels with a 7na or 7a and start building highlights up through that.