Wella KP Special Blonde + 0/28 or 0/88

[NightinEv]

Hey all!

I made this topic because I have limited experience with any High-lift dye not coming out brassy. It's not an issue with clients that want golden/copper tones, but this is about my own hair and although it's supposedly at the limit for high-lifts working correctly (a mix of levels 7, 6 and 5, averaging 6), I've always gotten "peach blonde" in the darkest areas and light but very yellow results over the lightest ones. My hair is also pretty acidic and "closed off", it doesn't lift very easily relative to the natural level. I've used High-lift on it when pre-lightened with no issue (damaging, I know).

Having said that - even though, for some reason, that specific shade is not available in my country - I've seen that Wella carry 12/22, which in principle would indicate that you'd be able to use it on level 5 hair without it coming off super warm. That piqued my interest and got me thinking about using Special Mix in shades like 0/28 or 0/88 to add to something like 12/81 (granted, I'd lose some lift but that's not a huge issue here). I'm giving it some thought because currently my hair is 9 and 10 with some lowlights at 7 that I did to alleviate demarcation (it didn't make the hair significantly darken, though it did break the block "platinum" as I intended), but my ash level 6 coming through is still bothering me. I can't do a simple "root bump" or something like that because my skin is very cool and any warmth clashes with it, so this is the core of my question - have any of you used these high-lifts with pigment added to them rendering cool results that last? I don't mind it looking mousy or dull for a while if it means it'll settle into a neutral color eventually, I just don't want orange coming through.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ronray]

Hey all!

I made this topic because I have limited experience with any High-lift dye not coming out brassy. It's not an issue with clients that want golden/copper tones, but this is about my own hair and although it's supposedly at the limit for high-lifts working correctly (a mix of levels 7, 6 and 5, averaging 6), I've always gotten "peach blonde" in the darkest areas and light but very yellow results over the lightest ones. My hair is also pretty acidic and "closed off", it doesn't lift very easily relative to the natural level. I've used High-lift on it when pre-lightened with no issue (damaging, I know).

Having said that - even though, for some reason, that specific shade is not available in my country - I've seen that Wella carry 12/22, which in principle would indicate that you'd be able to use it on level 5 hair without it coming off super warm. That piqued my interest and got me thinking about using Special Mix in shades like 0/28 or 0/88 to add to something like 12/81 (granted, I'd lose some lift but that's not a huge issue here). I'm giving it some thought because currently my hair is 9 and 10 with some lowlights at 7 that I did to alleviate demarcation (it didn't make the hair significantly darken, though it did break the block "platinum" as I intended), but my ash level 6 coming through is still bothering me. I can't do a simple "root bump" or something like that because my skin is very cool and any warmth clashes with it, so this is the core of my question - have any of you used these high-lifts with pigment added to them rendering cool results that last? I don't mind it looking mousy or dull for a while if it means it'll settle into a neutral color eventually, I just don't want orange coming through.

Thanks in advance!

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

 

[NightinEv]

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

Thank you!

The /88 does look super dark even in swatch. Re your last sentence, I was avoiding double-procesding because I'd done everything alone (the platinum was all-over on scalp and the lowlights I used a cap for). I'll have to enlist a friend this time and my logic was "it's easier to tell them to deposit the product on the "black band"" versus "on the darker brassier blonde", it's a clearer line. It only now just dawned on me that since the lowlights (Illumina 7/ + 9/60 w 10v) touched some of the regrowth, I likely won't be able to use high-ligt and will have to bleach. Oh well, sorry for the pointless inquiry but thank you still, I will steer clear of 0/88 on light levels.

 

[NightinEv]

Update: I figured the lowlights wouldn't be a huge issue even if they didn't lift, so I went ahead with the 12/81 + 0/28 with 40vol. On the areas of my natural hair which are closer to the 7 the results were neutral enough, but as for the rest... Well, at least it softened the demarcation line. If my whole hair was a 7 it would have been nicer, but lesson learned, I guess with high-lift I'm stuck with warm results. Thanks for the advice ronray!

 

[NightinEv]

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

By the way, these were the results. Do you think there's a way to make this more beige without significantly darkening? If so, what would you recommend? I have KP, CT and Shinefinity at my disposal. Thanks!