Blonde to light ash brown

[Sam289]

Hi, I've got a client who is a natural ashy base 7/8 more 8 on the top. Shes been having wella koleston 12/89 full head and currently has 2 inch roots, but wants 2 return more natural as she can't up keep the roots. I know I will have to use something with some warmth in it but what? Without going too warm/gold? Her aim is an 8/1 Maybes with a touch 7/1. Her colour at the moment isn't white more yellowey blonde. Any ideas please? I use wella. Thanks in advance Sam x

 

[snaz]

Sorry not 100% sure has never put to practice, but as a guess would do has below.

I would do this but I may be wrong, pre pig hair with special mix 0/33 to 10 parts water, apply with sponge on damp hair. Blot with paper towel/tissue. If there's too much tone you may rinse..
Apply 7/1 to root and 7/0 semi to the mid lengths and ends. If you need lift at root area could use permanent tint.

 

[snaz]

Just read some info from wella
5-30cm of special mix to 60 ml of water. Apply where necessary leave 10-15 mins, blot excess off with tissue and apply target shade, apply to dry or pre shampooed hair depending on technique selected.

 

[T-2012]

I think if you put a 7/1 or 8/1 on 12/89 it will come out quite golden where the previous highlights were. I agree with snaz about pre piging your highlights however i would use a violet toner /66, as doesn't this kill yellow tones? If your highlights are yellow blonde then putting a gold toner on will only just make them more gold. once you've pri piged i'd say rinse the hair and then apply your colour. I don't really know what colour to suggest without seeing the hair but, i'd just say try and say away from the /3 if you want to go ash.
Just trying to offer advice but i wouldnt say i was a colour expert so maybe someone else might be able to suggest something else? Good luck anyway with it.

 

[Sam289]

Thanks for replys, its a full head colour she has on. I was thinking of pre pigging with 8/7, then applying 8/1. Its just I know 8/1 will come out goldeny! Hmmmm....

 

[snaz]

Thanks for replys, its a full head colour she has on. I was thinking of pre pigging with 8/7, then applying 8/1. Its just I know 8/1 will come out goldeny! Hmmmm....

Just what ive read on here is that /7 can still be quite khaki looking when used for pre pig. Could try 8/73 has this has some gold in. mix 15ml to 60ml of warm water, leave for 10 mins, blot excess and then I would apply 8/1 to roots and then 8/0 to ends, you could rinse if you think it's. Too warm, apply desired colour to wet or try hair depending on method ( I would apply quasi, has you r only depositing colour).

You don't want to apply 8/1 on ends has this will come out khaki. I would advise client that there needs to be a bit of warmth at this stage to put back under tones. But these will fade has they wash there hair .

I'm just going back into hair so I may be wrong with what I've quoted.
I'm sat with all the wella info at moment trying to get all this colouring info drilled in my head lol.....

 

[T-2012]

Yea you really dont want to use /1 on it as it will come out quite khaki, unfortunately made this mistake before. Have you considered pre piging with a 9/8 and then applying half of 88/0 with 8/96? this will cancel out any gold/yellow tones and then the 88/0 will give it quite a flat base colour. I think you need quite a lot of base if your going darker as the colour will just fade out really quickly. I think for the 1st application she may find that the colour is warm, you'll just have to explain that in order to go darker you need to put the warmth back in as the colour will just look green otherwise. Once you get her to a nice base 8 then you can change the tone for her to make sure there is no warmth.

 

[Sam289]

Thanks for ur replys. Im liking the idea of 88/0 and 8/96,but im thinking its not going to be dark enough. Pre-pigging with 9/8 wouldn't that neutrilise all the yellow in the hair? Argh! Confused! lol! Been thinking about this one all weekend. I may use 8/73 as suggested my snaz for the pre pigment, Then apply 8/0 with a touch of 7/0 then have an ash semi on hand if any red tones come through.
Also would using a silver shampoo do any good on darker hair, if it was slightly golden? (thought about this before, not just for this client) Thanks you sam x

 

[Bluerinse]

88/0 with 8/96 is no point, the double pigment in 88/0 will knock anything else out try 8/0

 

[snaz]

Let's us know how you get on. Yes I too was getting confused with 9-8 to pre pig also.

Im not sure on the 88/0 and 8/96 sounds good but thought that you needed the under tones in to keep the colour from fading as well has stopping from being khaki? But as said I need refreshing in colouring .

also if someone can answer why do I see a lot of people using double bases for darkening?, I thought they were for grey hair, and wouldn't the colour come out flat? I'm not knocking anyone, it's good to know any different views, I'm learning new things every day!!!

Can remember where I read this but if you r doing a pre pig it is better to use a lighter shade then target shade ie you say you was using 8/73, use 9/73 then apply your colour touch 8/0. But you only need to Put the yellow. Tone back In if you r going to a base 8/0 so 9/3 would be fine.

And as for the blueshampoo/purple can't see how it wouldn't work if there's too much warmth.

 

[Bluerinse]

Let's us know how you get on. Yes I too was getting confused with 9-8 to pre pig also.

Im not sure on the 88/0 and 8/96 sounds good but thought that you needed the under tones in to keep the colour from fading as well has stopping from being khaki? But as said I need refreshing in colouring .

also if someone can answer why do I see a lot of people using double bases for darkening?, I thought they were for grey hair, and wouldn't the colour come out flat? I'm not knocking anyone, it's good to know any different views, I'm learning new things every day!!!

Can remember where I read this but if you r doing a pre pig it is better to use a lighter shade then target shade ie you say you was using 8/73, use 9/73 then apply your colour touch 8/0. But you only need to Put the yellow. Tone back In if you r going to a base 8/0 so 9/3 would be fine.

And as for the blueshampoo/purple can't see how it wouldn't work if there's too much warmth.

Basically it's cheaper!! Why have 2 lines of 8/0 and 88/0 when u can save some money and just have 88/0?

Fortunately in matrix their is no way of cheating so I have every single colour

 

[snaz]

Thanks blue rinse, good to know!!!

 

[snaz]

88/0 with 8/96 is no point, the double pigment in 88/0 will knock anything else out try 8/0

When you say the double base will knock anything do you mean mix 8:0 with 8/96 or use 8/0 on its own?

 

[Bluerinse]

When you say the double base will knock anything do you mean mix 8:0 with 8/96 or use 8/0 on its own?

No use 10ml 8/0 and like 30ml 8/96

 

[snaz]

No use 10ml 8/0 and like 30ml 8/96

Makes sense... But would you be able to use this formula when you have just pre pig hair with 9/3??? Or would it be best using 8/0

 

[Bluerinse]

Makes sense... But would you be able to use this formula when you have just pre pig hair with 9/3??? Or would it be best using 8/0

Maybe use more 8/0

 

[snaz]

Thanks bluerinse, there's not much you don't know!!! May be one day when I've conquered wella I will swap to matrix, has it seems to be a all singing talking product lol!!!!!

 

[T-2012]

Yea i can see what you mean about the 88/0 actually, could just use 8/0, my thinking behind 88/0 was that it would grab more and also as she said she didnt want warmth this would leave quite a flat colour on the hair? I thought because she said the client had a lot of yellow in the hair already then you wouldnt need to replace it to go darker, surely you could just colour over it and just tone the yellow to kill the warmth. Do you not find that Wella colours throw off so much gold?

Let us know how you get on and what colour you ended up using, good luck with it. xx