Help with Ink rock top coat please

[*Carly*]

im still getting pooling issues. I have cleaned off the stem and the brush pretty much completely and yet still getting pooling in the sidewalls and eponychium end sometimes. I can't easily leave the nails completely flat on the table because then I can't see so well and obviously want complete coverage. I do try to clean out any pooling but it just pools back immediately. I swear I am using next to no top coat. I'm using a uv tunnel lamp with no short setting or pause button, so can't really flash cure easily and I know I shouldn have to.

Would stirring/shaking it first help? I don't want to create bubbles and assumed because there was no pigment I wouldn't need to.

Is there a certain hand position that would work better?

Please help! What am I doing wrong?

On a similar note: how can I float the topcoat over ombres etc when it pools with almost nothing on the brush?

Got a model coming in 20 minutes and really want to fix this issue! X

 

[Cindy2021]

I've recently used this top coat and love it so far. I've not had any pooling issues however I usually use Cuccio Veneer which isn't a thick gel so I'm used to applying very thinly and an LED lamp. I have used it thicker over pigments and glitters so wondering if it's the 2 mins cure. Hopefully someone else using a similar lamp can advise.
I always angle the fingers down slightly when I work. If there is any clean up needed I use a clean brush dipped in IPA and dried off.

 

[attitude]

You can still flash cure if you leave your lamp on.

 

[*Carly*]

Thank you both for your replies. I got a little better today, but I used Gelicure which is a little thicker, though I've had pooling issues with that too. I try to angle all the nails down slightly but sometimes when I'm working on one nail the client has moved and it's run a bit. I really struggle doing the thumbs without the client tilting their whole hand to one side. I keep trying different things but it feels quite clunky and unprofessional, asking clients to keep their hands flat etc and half the time they move them anyway. I'm slow too as I'm low on confidence and want to make sure I'm really thorough. I think you're right that the slow cure isn't helping either. I am just so worried about time and worried flash curing will slow me down even more and waste my bulbs a fair bit :/ I will try it next time though. I'm hoping it's something I can eventually get to grips with. I just feel so lacking in confidence and slow atm. I keep practising but I feel like I'm actually getting slower!

Does anyone have any other tips?

 

[attitude]

When you flash cure, it only needs a few seconds, do a nail then put client in lamp, do next finger, have them switch hands, repeat. Takes very little extra time.

 

[*Carly*]

When you flash cure, it only needs a few seconds, do a nail then put client in lamp, do next finger, have them switch hands, repeat. Takes very little extra time.

Thank you, never thought to keep switching hands like that! Will give it a try today xx

 

[SEM812]

As for thumbs, I do four fingers on 1 hand then cure, four fingers on the other hand then cure, then lastly both thumbs together so that you can turn the thumbs flat without risk of the gel on the fingers running (as it's already cured). I lift the lamp up and the client sort of holds it when their thumbs are in with it resting on the side of their index finger, if that makes sense!
And for particularly fidgety clients, I do all four fingers on 1 hand completely, right through to wiping off the tacky layer, then four fingers of the other hand completely, then the 2 thumbs. It might take a little bit longer as you have to wait whilst the fingers are in the lamp (as opposed to carrying on with the other hand), but hey it's only 45 seconds each time! And it saves time overall as they don't bash any of the layers in between whilst moving their hands around, so no repair jobs needed or poor finish!
Good luck!

 

[*Carly*]

As for thumbs, I do four fingers on 1 hand then cure, four fingers on the other hand then cure, then lastly both thumbs together so that you can turn the thumbs flat without risk of the gel on the fingers running (as it's already cured). I lift the lamp up and the client sort of holds it when their thumbs are in with it resting on the side of their index finger, if that makes sense!
And for particularly fidgety clients, I do all four fingers on 1 hand completely, right through to wiping off the tacky layer, then four fingers of the other hand completely, then the 2 thumbs. It might take a little bit longer as you have to wait whilst the fingers are in the lamp (as opposed to carrying on with the other hand), but hey it's only 45 seconds each time! And it saves time overall as they don't bash any of the layers in between whilst moving their hands around, so no repair jobs needed or poor finish!
Good luck!

Do you do the thumbs separately for each layer of just top coat?

Thank you so much for these ideas. I get so concerned about time but tbh doing the thumbs like that might save time overall if I'm not desperately trying to clean out sidewalls. I use a tunnel lamp so doing the 2 hands separately- although I love this idea, I think it would add on a lot of time as its 2 min cure for every layer and that's a lot of time to be sitting not working on the other hand. I really want to get the Ink Led when I can afford it. I have a few nightmare fidgets that that method would definitely help, but to do it it would have to be under Led.

I have a 12:30 today so I'm going to try and do the thumbs separately like you said, that's generally where it all goes wrong for me.

I will say, I had a long chat with my bestie last night, zooming in on my photos and others to compare and she said I am being too hard on myself.

Here's yesterday's Gelicure

and the previous day's ILac

Xx

 

[attitude]

I think you're doing just fine!
Try switching hands to flash cure.

 

[*Carly*]

I think you're doing just fine!
Try switching hands to flash cure.

Thank you! I think My expectations of myself are too high! I'm going to try flash curing and switching today. Xx

 

[*Carly*]

So it sort of went better lol! She brought her baby and was basically the first time she'd taken her to an appointment or anything. So we had a lot of stopping and starting to feed the baby and adjust the pushchair etc. She also needed a soak off first, which the salon owner did, but she still left a bit of colour on the nail. I also had to do a repair on one. So what was meant to be a 12:30 didn't start 'till about 1 and finishished at about 3 but there were reasons for it.

I was so terrified about time, that I was worried flash curing would get me into a pickle. I did as suggested and did the thumbs separately for each layer. It does add on extra 8-10 mins in the lamp though, with me unable to do anything whilst they're in. I'm awaiting a txt from the salon owner telling me I was too slow again. BUT I did much better and didn't have pooling issues. She was a hairdresser so she thankfully listened when I told her to keep the nails pointing down.

I did end up with a couple of bubbles though! I never get them with my home clients, only in the salon which I suspect is because they often start with nails in pretty bad shape. I did my best and I'm improving. The client said she really appreciated how much of a perfectionist I was and my attention to detail. Just dreading this txt now! Xx

 

[LuxeBeauty]

I think your nails are lovely! I've just received my InkLondon trial kit and just applied my first hand! So far I'm loving it.
By the sounds of it you just need a bit more confidence which comes with time [emoji4]
To be honest it doesn't sound like it was your fault it took so long. If the client kept getting up to see to her baby that would slow anyone down and throw you off track! I would be inclined to perhaps suggest if someone could come with her to mind baby next time she is in or don't bring her. I know it sounds harsh but if you had a client booked in after then you would be late for them and then it can put your whole day out.
But I think you are doing really well [emoji5]️ it took me ages to get up to speed. Just don't put too much pressure on your self ( or let the salon owner do that) otherwise this makes you nervous. Keep going! X

 

[*Carly*]

Aw @LuxeBeauty thank you so much hunny! I am lacking confidence and set my standards too high I think. I literally compare myself to educators and competition winners and deliberately pick on myself! I get a lot of pressure from the salon owner, but she's nice and not unkind about it thankfully. I just dread the criticism and get so anxious. It's a cheapo salon and most people want and expect quick in and out nails. She's forever telling me to not do such thorough cuticle work, but if I don't I'd end up with messy nails that don't last and probably more bubbles and bits in the base coat. People seem to push the eponychium back but not actually remove the true cuticle!

I think I'd have been much quicker without the baby, but it was just one of those things. She's a hairdresser so she did totally understand the situation and said she wouldn't bring her again. Just hope the salon owner can see it that way and not blame me!

I am loving ink! The only thing I'm having struggles with is the top coat and occasionally getting bubbles in the base. I never get bubbles when I do my home clients though. I really hate buffing the nails at all but I've started doing it a tiny bit with a 240 on some people, just to try and prevent bubbles in the base coat and make sure I've really gotten every scrap off cuticle off that nail plate. I'm clearly missing the odd bit though gah! Xx

 

[user 114723]

Try not to worry about your time and just focus on doing your nails (which look great!) your times will come down the more you do, I can't offer advice regards pooling as I've not tried ink yet, but the pictures you've put up look lovely - I'd be happy to pay for them xx

 

[*Carly*]

Thank you @Swifty84 I think the pressure comes from the salon owner I sometimes work for. She is always on at me to be quicker or cut corners. Tomorrow (god I mean today- I need sleep!) I have an 11 model at home, then a client at the salon at 2 and then I have to be done and out by 4 to change and get to a different job I'm doing at 5. So there will be time restraints! I've left big doable ones but I need to stay focused. Tbh I have done it in around an 1 hr 15 ish when she's had me booked back to back, so I know I can speed up. It's just when I get ones with really bad nails, gel still partially on them (she does the removals in the salon), etc, they take me so much longer.

Wish me luck for tomorrow/today. I'm gonna be exhausted Xx

 

[user 114723]

Aww good luck Carly, you'll get through it hun xx

 

[LeilaM]

Looking at your work Carly I can't see any pooling ? Salon geeks not letting me zoom in but they look lovely. I agree with swifty84, don't worry about your timing, you'll speed up soon enough. Much better to do quality work and have less problems with lifting and chipping.... just keep doing what you're doing xx

 

[*Carly*]

Looking at your work Carly I can't see any pooling ? Salon geeks not letting me zoom in but they look lovely. I agree with swifty84, don't worry about your timing, you'll speed up soon enough. Much better to do quality work and have less problems with lifting and chipping.... just keep doing what you're doing xx

Thanks Leila. There was a little, obviously I cleaned it off, but I actually had to file 2 nails slightly on the lilac set because it had pooled a little at the corner on the free edge. Did another set of rockstars yesterday and still struggled a bit. I try and brush the glitter off before topcoat so it's out the side walls, but some of the glitter brushed off completely in 2 tiny patches, luckily we were stamping so you couldn't tell. The nails were absolutely teeny so I wanted to get as close as possible. They looked nice in the end and she was mega happy but I know I could have done better and I'm worried I got so close that there's gel in the cuticle area. I think I get frustrated, as I know when I paint with lacquer I can get an absolutely perfect end result because it dries where I've put it. I will get there, I'm just really hard on myself. I'll upload a pic of yesterdays in a mo. My left hand is still hurting between my thumb and index, as she couldn't seem to give me her hand straight on and I've had a break there in the past.

 

[user 114723]

Thanks Leila. There was a little, obviously I cleaned it off, but I actually had to file 2 nails slightly on the lilac set because it had pooled a little at the corner on the free edge. Did another set of rockstars yesterday and still struggled a bit. I try and brush the glitter off before topcoat so it's out the side walls, but some of the glitter brushed off completely in 2 tiny patches, luckily we were stamping so you couldn't tell. The nails were absolutely teeny so I wanted to get as close as possible. They looked nice in the end and she was mega happy but I know I could have done better and I'm worried I got so close that there's gel in the cuticle area. I think I get frustrated, as I know when I paint with lacquer I can get an absolutely perfect end result because it dries where I've put it. I will get there, I'm just really hard on myself. I'll upload a pic of yesterdays in a mo. My left hand is still hurting between my thumb and index, as she couldn't seem to give me her hand straight on and I've had a break there in the past.

Carly is there a support you can wear on your hand whilst working? I snapped my right wrist 6 years ago and had to have a plate, I wear a wrist support whilst working and it really helps stop it aching x

 

[*Carly*]

Here's yesterdays set. Getting a nice line at the eponychium area was tricky on some of them as my brush was a bit too big and flat. I should have nipped a bit more too but I try to avoid it as much as possible and found her not the easiest to work on. Not my best sadly but she was happy and it was as a model so a freebie. X