Wella KP Special Blonde + 0/28 or 0/88

[NightinEv]

Hey all!

I made this topic because I have limited experience with any High-lift dye not coming out brassy. It's not an issue with clients that want golden/copper tones, but this is about my own hair and although it's supposedly at the limit for high-lifts working correctly (a mix of levels 7, 6 and 5, averaging 6), I've always gotten "peach blonde" in the darkest areas and light but very yellow results over the lightest ones. My hair is also pretty acidic and "closed off", it doesn't lift very easily relative to the natural level. I've used High-lift on it when pre-lightened with no issue (damaging, I know).

Having said that - even though, for some reason, that specific shade is not available in my country - I've seen that Wella carry 12/22, which in principle would indicate that you'd be able to use it on level 5 hair without it coming off super warm. That piqued my interest and got me thinking about using Special Mix in shades like 0/28 or 0/88 to add to something like 12/81 (granted, I'd lose some lift but that's not a huge issue here). I'm giving it some thought because currently my hair is 9 and 10 with some lowlights at 7 that I did to alleviate demarcation (it didn't make the hair significantly darken, though it did break the block "platinum" as I intended), but my ash level 6 coming through is still bothering me. I can't do a simple "root bump" or something like that because my skin is very cool and any warmth clashes with it, so this is the core of my question - have any of you used these high-lifts with pigment added to them rendering cool results that last? I don't mind it looking mousy or dull for a while if it means it'll settle into a neutral color eventually, I just don't want orange coming through.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ronray]

Hey all!

I made this topic because I have limited experience with any High-lift dye not coming out brassy. It's not an issue with clients that want golden/copper tones, but this is about my own hair and although it's supposedly at the limit for high-lifts working correctly (a mix of levels 7, 6 and 5, averaging 6), I've always gotten "peach blonde" in the darkest areas and light but very yellow results over the lightest ones. My hair is also pretty acidic and "closed off", it doesn't lift very easily relative to the natural level. I've used High-lift on it when pre-lightened with no issue (damaging, I know).

Having said that - even though, for some reason, that specific shade is not available in my country - I've seen that Wella carry 12/22, which in principle would indicate that you'd be able to use it on level 5 hair without it coming off super warm. That piqued my interest and got me thinking about using Special Mix in shades like 0/28 or 0/88 to add to something like 12/81 (granted, I'd lose some lift but that's not a huge issue here). I'm giving it some thought because currently my hair is 9 and 10 with some lowlights at 7 that I did to alleviate demarcation (it didn't make the hair significantly darken, though it did break the block "platinum" as I intended), but my ash level 6 coming through is still bothering me. I can't do a simple "root bump" or something like that because my skin is very cool and any warmth clashes with it, so this is the core of my question - have any of you used these high-lifts with pigment added to them rendering cool results that last? I don't mind it looking mousy or dull for a while if it means it'll settle into a neutral color eventually, I just don't want orange coming through.

Thanks in advance!

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

 

[NightinEv]

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

Thank you!

The /88 does look super dark even in swatch. Re your last sentence, I was avoiding double-procesding because I'd done everything alone (the platinum was all-over on scalp and the lowlights I used a cap for). I'll have to enlist a friend this time and my logic was "it's easier to tell them to deposit the product on the "black band"" versus "on the darker brassier blonde", it's a clearer line. It only now just dawned on me that since the lowlights (Illumina 7/ + 9/60 w 10v) touched some of the regrowth, I likely won't be able to use high-ligt and will have to bleach. Oh well, sorry for the pointless inquiry but thank you still, I will steer clear of 0/88 on light levels.

 

[NightinEv]

Update: I figured the lowlights wouldn't be a huge issue even if they didn't lift, so I went ahead with the 12/81 + 0/28 with 40vol. On the areas of my natural hair which are closer to the 7 the results were neutral enough, but as for the rest... Well, at least it softened the demarcation line. If my whole hair was a 7 it would have been nicer, but lesson learned, I guess with high-lift I'm stuck with warm results. Thanks for the advice ronray!

 

[NightinEv]

/28 would be a better choice. /88 is like a blue black ink colour - it's crazy dense as a pigment and will leave you with a tram line where your roots are..... Probably worse than you have with your natural root. Don't forget you can also tone over a high lift to cool it down.

By the way, these were the results. Do you think there's a way to make this more beige without significantly darkening? If so, what would you recommend? I have KP, CT and Shinefinity at my disposal. Thanks!

 

[ronray]

Go back in with 8/96 + 9/8 use 6%
Or you could try 10/16 + 9/38 to get lift as well as less warmth.

 

[NightinEv]

Go back in with 8/96 + 9/8 use 6%
Or you could try 10/16 + 9/38 to get lift as well as less warmth.

Thank you!

Is it your experience that hair will stil lift with oxidation color after high-lift? To me it can make sense because although it's color, it actually deposits nothing as far as natural pigments, does not cover gray, etc. Sorry for all the questions but when I was in school my instructor would say that even bleached hair needed bleach to lift further (when I had successfully used high-lift over bleached hair to get it out of the yellow phase more than once, but he flat-out told me he didn't believe me), so I might be too dogmatic - I'm also not super eager to test on clients and I'm very limited with what I'll do on myself because I normally don't have help.

 

[ronray]

Thank you!

Is it your experience that hair will stil lift with oxidation color after high-lift? To me it can make sense because although it's color, it actually deposits nothing as far as natural pigments, does not cover gray, etc. Sorry for all the questions but when I was in school my instructor would say that even bleached hair needed bleach to lift further (when I had successfully used high-lift over bleached hair to get it out of the yellow phase more than once, but he flat-out told me he didn't believe me), so I might be too dogmatic - I'm also not super eager to test on clients and I'm very limited with what I'll do on myself because I normally don't have help.

To get lift anywhere near what you have on the ends, you'd need to bleach the roots then tone. You will achieve lift with tint over tint but only in specific circumstances.
Here's an interesting fact for you.... Wella KP 10/0 + 12% will lift tint and can be used to eradicate banding.
Most level 10's will give some form of lift because of the ammonia in the formula. It may not be the lift you'd expect, but it definitely lifts.
If you're trying to avoid bleaching your roots, I'd consider either cutting the bleached ends off or at least toning the ends down to blend in more with the tinted hair. High lift will never give you the same lift as bleach so it will never blend in fully.

 

[NightinEv]

To get lift anywhere near what you have on the ends, you'd need to bleach the roots then tone. You will achieve lift with tint over tint but only in specific circumstances.
Here's an interesting fact for you.... Wella KP 10/0 + 12% will lift tint and can be used to eradicate banding.
Most level 10's will give some form of lift because of the ammonia in the formula. It may not be the lift you'd expect, but it definitely lifts.
If you're trying to avoid bleaching your roots, I'd consider either cutting the bleached ends off or at least toning the ends down to blend in more with the tinted hair. High lift will never give you the same lift as bleach so it will never blend in fully.

That's very interesting re the level 10, thank you!

As far as my roots I intend on testing out one of the formulas you gave - I'm well aware I can't match my ends without bleach, I had to double process to get to that level and my hair lifts really slowly for its level, I'm fine with the lift I got from the 12/ formula, I just wanted to tone down the warmth. Thank you again!