Koleston Perfect 7 too dark

[Amonavis33]

Hello,

I have a question about the Koleston Perfect me+ product. I colored a friend who is a natural level 6 with 50% gray and thin hair texture. She wants 100% gray coverage and no warmth or brassiness. She hates warmth. She also wants to be a shade lighter (7).
I colored her hair with one third 7/0 & two thirds 7/2 with wellexton 20 vol, for 40 minutes.

She is pleased with the gray coverage but she finds it too dark. It doesn’t seem like a level 7 at all. In the future i want to go lighter and still get an ashy result. Does anyone have any tips?

By the way: She used to color her hair using a mix of just 6/2 and 7/2 and no neutral in the formula! It looked very nice and natural but the grays were popping through. Adding the 7/0 was my idea to cover the grays better but now it’s too dark.

Should I:
-leave the color on for 30 minutes instead of 40?
-change to a 30 volume developer? (I didn’t think I needed to since I’m only trying to go one shade lighter)
-adjust the formula to one third 7/0 & two thirds 8/2 for a lighter result?

I have attached a photo of how the color turned out.

Thanks

 

[adamlea87]

Neutral will always deposit darker on fine texture hair, but I think the issue might be if you used the same formula roots to ends? Only add neutral to the grey regrowth, lengths and ends only need to target shade

 

[ronray]

Adding the 7/0 will give better coverage on the white hairs and possibly this is why she feels its darker than what she's used to. The coverage will be more solid. Whereas before the coverage n the white hairs may have been more sheer creating a colour that's lighter in appearance.
To get a true cool result on a lighter base than the natural you'd have to prelightened the hair and then tone it back down with a cooler colour.
When you try and lift the hair with tint, it will always expose warmth, that warmth we see is much stronger than any colour that comes out of a tube. So technically speaking the only way to keep it cool or to go a level darker.

 

[Amonavis33]

Adding the 7/0 will give better coverage on the white hairs and possibly this is why she feels its darker than what she's used to. The coverage will be more solid. Whereas before the coverage n the white hairs may have been more sheer creating a colour that's lighter in appearance.
To get a true cool result on a lighter base than the natural you'd have to prelightened the hair and then tone it back down with a cooler colour.
When you try and lift the hair with tint, it will always expose warmth, that warmth we see is much stronger than any colour that comes out of a tube. So technically speaking the only way to keep it cool or to go a level darker.

Thanks, that was very helpful. Can you provide a sample formula for going from level 6 with 50% gray to a level 7 ash? Lightening it first and then toning it up to an ashy 7 like you said? Just if you happen to know. Preferably using Koleston Perfect products? I could still use 20 volume right? Thanks

 

[ronray]

Thanks, that was very helpful. Can you provide a sample formula for going from level 6 with 50% gray to a level 7 ash? Lightening it first and then toning it up to an ashy 7 like you said? Just if you happen to know. Preferably using Koleston Perfect products? I could still use 20 volume right? Thanks

Well you'd need to lift it first. You could either use kp 10/0 + 9% or 12%. Or bleach + 3%.
This should leave you with a warm level 8. So to create a nice cool colour then you could use colour touch 7/89 + 1.9%
Or ct 6/71 + 8/81 + 1.9%

 

[Amonavis33]

Well you'd need to lift it first. You could either use kp 10/0 + 9% or 12%. Or bleach + 3%.
This should leave you with a warm level 8. So to create a nice cool colour then you could use colour touch 7/89 + 1.9%
Or ct 6/71 + 8/81 + 1.9%

Thanks! I think I’ll try this out on my friend next time. She has thin hair, so which option do you think is the most gentle? The 10/0 + 9% or the bleach plus 3%?

 

[ronray]

Thanks! I think I’ll try this out on my friend next time. She has thin hair, so which option do you think is the most gentle? The 10/0 + 9% or the bleach plus 3%?

You could even use bleach + 1.9% especially if it's fine.