Koleston Special Blonde Formula

[AlleyMcG]

Hi all!
I’m new here and out of the biz for a while but trying to dip my toe back in so I’m very new to high lift wella blondes…lightener and colour charm was where I left off! I’ll be trying to achieve an all over buttery blonde/very soft warm/closer to cool. Although different, either of these pics would work.
No grey, level 6-7. I was thinking 12/81 + 12/61 + dash of 0/66 and 0/88 with 40vol OR 12/96 + 12/81 OR 12/16 with a kicker? I’m also seeing toner sometimes used after…? Is that commonly needed after with this product? Thoughts?

I plan on taking some Wella specific courses to get me back up to speed but in the meantime, any help is appreciated!

 

[ronray]

Hi all!
I’m new here and out of the biz for a while but trying to dip my toe back in so I’m very new to high lift wella blondes…lightener and colour charm was where I left off! I’ll be trying to achieve an all over buttery blonde/very soft warm/closer to cool. Although different, either of these pics would work.
No grey, level 6-7. I was thinking 12/81 + 12/61 + dash of 0/66 and 0/88 with 40vol OR 12/96 + 12/81 OR 12/16 with a kicker? I’m also seeing toner sometimes used after…? Is that commonly needed after with this product? Thoughts?

I plan on taking some Wella specific courses to get me back up to speed but in the meantime, any help is appreciated!

For this level of lightness and clarity you'll still need to bleach and tone. Especially from a level 6. You'll be lucky to get a clean result on a level 7 most times.

 

[AlleyMcG]

For this level of lightness and clarity you'll still need to bleach and tone. Especially from a level 6. You'll be lucky to get a clean result on a level 7 most times.

Thanks for your response okay, interesting wella says five levels of lift so you’re saying they just don’t lift to required tone or if it does lift, it’s a very warm (possibly brassy) lift regardless?

 

[AlleyMcG]

Thanks for your response okay, interesting wella says five levels of lift so you’re saying they just don’t lift to required tone or if it does lift, it’s a very warm (possibly brassy) lift regardless?

…and is this why I’ve seen toning after using koleston?

 

[ronray]

Thanks for your response okay, interesting wella says five levels of lift so you’re saying they just don’t lift to required tone or if it does lift, it’s a very warm (possibly brassy) lift regardless?

Yes, I'm a level 6 and with 12/89 + 12% for 60mins I lift to what I'd compare to an 8/73 .
I get the same lift with 10/0 and 12% pretty much.
You could always do a strand test. But I find anything lower than a level 7 and the result is always warmer and darker.

 

[AlleyMcG]

Yes, I'm a level 6 and with 12/89 + 12% for 60mins I lift to what I'd compare to an 8/73 .
I get the same lift with 10/0 and 12% pretty much.
You could always do a strand test. But I find anything lower than a level 7 and the result is always warmer and darker.

I’m sorry for the delay in my response! Very helpful and informative! Thank you so much!

 

[AlleyMcG]

I’m sorry for the delay in my response! Very helpful and informative! Thank you so much!

I will play around and do some strand tests for sure. I really appreciate your time

 

[Dany_G]

You have to take into account the texture of the hair when using a high lift. At the same natural level, a very fine texture will lift much more that a medium-to-coarse texture. Coarse hair simply has a higher density of natural pigments in it that won't oxidize so easily. Also, many people have tons of red in their hair (even at a level 7), so that plays a role too. More red in the hair = brassier results.

I find that toning is almost always required after using a high lift, but it's still a great alternative to bleach in terms of comfort at the scalp and health of the hair. And if the person in your chair wants to see pops of light blonde, you can always balayage or babylight over the lightened base for a trendy dimensional look!