Student has colouring questions...

[Wandering Woman]

OK - I am a student... be gentle with me if I am asking really dumb questions:

When taking blonde to chocolate brown, why should you pre pig with red etc first before you apply the permanent brown? I understand it cd go greeny but could you not apply a perm brown color with extra red tones all at once? Also what sort of product can you pre pig with? Quasi/Semi?

Silver shampoo, how does it actually work – I understand its takes gold/yellow tones from hair but how? Is it damaging to the hair? It also brightens grey hair, is that right?

Also, am getting myself confused about when you should do mid lengths to ends first then roots and when you should do roots to ends etc? Both with quasi and permanent colors. Can anyone clarify?

Thanks for helping me out (BTW we use Wella at college so answers relating to this range would be most useful)

 

[Bluerinse]

Ok grab your colour wheel....silver shampoo is purple, sometimes blue! These are both opposite gold, yellow it's a highly colour pigmented shampoo which is why you need to skin test with it.

As for pre pig again grab your colour wheel, base 5 contains red, if you bleach this hair it has to lift through red, orange, gold, yellow, pale yellow white. At each stage of lifting these colours out your removing pigment and damaging the hair hair structure, so when depositing a colour onto this hair if you put a brown onto white you will have a bad end result, because one the colour has nothing to grab onto and two the brown will go green/ ashy

Depending what level your base shade was and depending how many levels you'd like to add back into the hair again depends on the colour wheel, for base 1-6 use red 7-8 orange-copper 9-10 gold-yellow x

 

[Tomme]

OK - I am a student... be gentle with me if I am asking really dumb questions:

When taking blonde to chocolate brown, why should you pre pig with red etc first before you apply the permanent brown? I understand it cd go greeny but could you not apply a perm brown color with extra red tones all at once? Also what sort of product can you pre pig with? Quasi/Semi?

Silver shampoo, how does it actually work – I understand its takes gold/yellow tones from hair but how? Is it damaging to the hair? It also brightens grey hair, is that right?

Also, am getting myself confused about when you should do mid lengths to ends first then roots and when you should do roots to ends etc? Both with quasi and permanent colors. Can anyone clarify?

Thanks for helping me out (BTW we use Wella at college so answers relating to this range would be most useful)

Like blue rinse said they the colour has been removed so it needs putting back, I personally use coloured mousse, as it's quick but still works well.

The shampoo works allong the same lines, the pigments in the anti yellow shampoo sit in the cuticles. Hair reflects colours throughout itself, this is what gives off the final colour achieved, so when yellow is present the purple/blue pigments neutralise the yellows "shining through", so in effect it dosent actually remove the yellow tones, just temporarily disguise them.

I have a old client who smokes way too much, the front of her hair is yellowish, so in her case I use a clarifying shampoo, as all it needs is the nicotine stains washing off, to me that a better thing than disguising the yellow
Xox

 

[Wandering Woman]

ok thx,
makes sense with the purple shampoo... didn't know you should do a skin test with it though!

I think I understand - May try adding prepigs on my dollyhead!

I assuming the color mousse for prepig you use is just a semi?
Thanks for the help Geeksters

NB
(if anyone wants to answer my last question regarding actual application... I am still listening )

 

[New_Experience]

I just asked this question last night at school. I was reminded of the three guides: On previous color, color does not lift color, color deposits color and color grabs color. If your moving 2 or more levels down the color wheel, then repigmenting is needed. If the client is at the high end(7-10) moving just two levels repigmenting would be recommended just to be safe to obtain the desired result the first time around since most of the natural color has been lifted off. We'v been told to use permanent. If the client wants a warmer color then the repigment would simply be toweled off and the next color applied. This will allow more red undertones to be visible. If the client wants a cooler look then the hair must be shampooed and dried and then colored to the desired results.

Using the violet shampoo excessively will result in a blue tinge on the hair. Some of the more mature ladies actually go for this look. The shampoo is slightly alkaline so it will lift the cuticle a bit so a good conditioner will be needed after shampooing to close it up or the hair will be rough

If your client has never colored their hair, then the app is from roots to ends. If the client is in for a retouch, then roots are done with a permanent dye and a demi is used on the remainder to refresh the color without adding build-up from repeated apps of permanent on the mid-shaft to ends section. This can be an upsale (recommended) to the customer or part of the retouch app cost but that would probably but the service above the price break of competitors.

 

[babychops]

I didn't know you should skin test with purple shampoo blue? X

 

[Bluerinse]

I didn't know you should skin test with purple shampoo blue? X

Yes check the back of loreal, matrix silver shampoo x

 

[babychops]

Learn something new everyday! X

 

[Jody2412]

If you are applying colour to virgin hair do mid lengths and ends first as they can be darker underneath as the sunlight hasn't touched these areas as much as the top. Also the scalp produces het so if the roots are done first you may end up with root glow before the rest of the colour has developed. Please learn your colour star off by heart and you will understand colour better.
Red removes green and vice versa
Violet removes yellow "
Blue removes orange "