Wella Colour Touch advice needed

[littlestpenguin]

Hi you all geeks!

I'm a newly qualified hairdresser and also new to this forum. I've been lurking here for a while but never posted anything before this! I graduated a month ago and sadly, due to COVID, my last year of training was not as hand-on as it should have been and because of that I will have a lot of questions that were left unanswered by my teachers... In a month or two I'll be starting as a junior hairdresser and trying to read as much as I can and attend web seminars before starting.

So, to the question:

We used Wella at my school and will be using that in the salon I'll be working at. We were taught to use Koleston to touch up the roots and use Colour Touch to the mid lengths, because it's more gentle. This method was used basically every time, going darker or lighter (obviously bleach was involved if going much lighter). But no one really ever talked about coloring within the same depth; would I still need to use Koleston + 4% to touch up the roots or could I use Colour Touch all over? And if I can use just Colour Touch, would the roots need a 4% emulsion or could 1.9% be used from roots to ends? Assuming there's no grey obviously and that the roots and lenghts are the same depth already. I know Colour Touch isn't a permanent color like Koleston but I think many people would prefer that over permanent these days.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Buggalugs88]

Hi ..I'm not a Wella user..now n then little pieces, however if I understand your question correctly ..u can put a colour refresh or similar on both towel dried and dry hair ...just simplify it in your head ..peroxide with open the cuticle and deposit colour wet or dry as that's it's purpose to open the cuticle to a activate and make it work ..if the natural hair just wants a nice colour glossing not much change but nice shiny healthy hair ..then if poss just go with the lower strength activator and I'd prefer to go on towel dried hair approx almost dry and it will then spread and saturate more evenly ( just like a lip gloss ) but if it's needing a slight shift in colour and your a little unsure ..well go with your gut instinct use your slightly higher activator and think it will or may shift the natural hair ..
Finally if your keeping well within the natural hair tone and your simply refreshing the hair why would you think of using a peroxide..just go with the kindest method and educate the client with water temps at home and good to bad hair products ..heat damage. They all play their part ..hope it helped

 

[ronray]

So when it comes to same depth it's literally the question of do they want to come back every 6-8 weeks to have their roots touched up (koleston) or do they want to let it fade out gradually and not give much of a Regrowth (colour touch)

As for choosing developers it depends on what your target shade is. Let's say your client is a natural level 6. You could opt for colour touch 55/65 - but you'd ise 4% as this is part of the intense red shades.
Let's say your client was a base 6 at roots but had a little bit of a level 8 left on the ends then you could opt for colour touch 55/65 +4% for the roots but you'd use 55/65 with 1.9% on the lighter ends.
If you had someone who was a natural level 5 all over the I'd opt for koleston 55/65 + 4% to give it a bit more punch. If you put colour touch on the same level it won't be as bright as the swatch looks.
Hopefully this is helpful.
If you have any more questions please ask

 

[littlestpenguin]

Thank you, both of you, this information was really helpful

Just one more question, what would happen if I put colour touch, let's say 8/43 to hair that's naturally level 8 already and use 1.9%? If I understood correctly it would be less bright than with 4% or with Koleston?

 

[ronray]

Thank you, both of you, this information was really helpful

Just one more question, what would happen if I put colour touch, let's say 8/43 to hair that's naturally level 8 already and use 1.9%? If I understood correctly it would be less bright than with 4% or with Koleston?

Yes so it wouldn't give such an intense coverage, it will leave a sheen of colour. But it would fade out really well and pretty much leave no massive trace after a while.