Lightening level 5 with Wella (Hilift)

[Marief]

Hi to everyone,

So I have a client that is a naturally level 5, she has highlighted hair and very noticeable roots, so she want to lighten her roots but want less damaging option, I know especially level 5 hair is really tricky because in there are to many red and orange undertones but I give it a try and use 12/89 with double 40 volume developer, the roots turn really orange like ginger kind of color, I try blue shampoo and that help me a little, so the question is what can i do to tone that orange hair color? What colors of the brand you recommend me? She want a pale blonde like a level 9 - 10, but I can't get rid of the golde stage.

Thank you all so much !

 

[ColourBoy]

You won't get a clean pale blonde with a highlift on anything but a 7 upwards really. Bleach and tone is the only option

 

[cassies97]

Hi to everyone,



So I have a client that is a naturally level 5, she has highlighted hair and very noticeable roots, so she want to lighten her roots but want less damaging option, I know especially level 5 hair is really tricky because in there are to many red and orange undertones but I give it a try and use 12/89 with double 40 volume developer, the roots turn really orange like ginger kind of color, I try blue shampoo and that help me a little, so the question is what can i do to tone that orange hair color? What colors of the brand you recommend me? She want a pale blonde like a level 9 - 10, but I can't get rid of the golde stage.



Thank you all so much !

What depth is it now? You can't tone with a 9 or 10 unless it is a 10.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

The only way you can get a level 9 to a 10 from a level 5 will be with a double-process ie bleach and tone.

Highlift will shift to maybe a very yellow level 8, even though it may promise up to 5 levels, think about how many undercoats you have to go through to get to a level 10 from a 5. Red/orange, orange, orange/yellow and then yellow. The highlift runs out of power hence why you need the power of bleach!

If your client still wants to use a highlift, you could foil with the 12/89 and 12% but add 2 or 3mls of /81 concentrate or the /28. Maybe start with 1 to 2 mls of the /28 as it is quite intense. Foiling will blend better into the 5 and create a more natural look.



You need to refer to your colour wheel regarding neutralising the Orange tone.

 

[Marief]

Thank so much for the quick reply to both of you ! Yes I know it's really difficult to achieve a clean pale blonde with highlift but I was thinking that a best option if it's I could maybe lighten her natural color to avoid the bad contrast she have with level 5 roots and level 12 mids and ends, and then highlight.

She have level 5 roots and level 12 mids and ends so I'm very complicate in what colors to used, she would love to maintain the level 12 but she want less damaging option because her hair is in really but condition, I don't want to touch her lengths only work with the roots, so I was thinking to lift her roots and tone to a color that can look perfect with her lengths, still not want to use bleach, son what you recommend me to achieve natural and good looking blonde instead of ginger color? I'm really complicated so I appreciate really much the help !

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Can you provide a photo please. That might help. Is her hair a level 10? How about low lighting?

 

[Marief]

I'm from Argentina, so please apologized me English ! Hahah.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Your English is absolutely fine. Just might be easier if you had a photo

 

[Marief]

So here it's my client hair in natural light, I have tone completely her hair with 12/89 with the pastel, but I still don't know what to do with her roots, I want to give her lighten roots but avoid the ginger tones, maybe lighten her to a more natural color that suits with the rest of her hair, because she want to stop bleaching her hair and keep it more natural, but she want to still being a blonde maybe not to blonde, but the problems I have always with her is that if I'm not bleaching hair and only put color on her natural regrowth it's still lookin ginger, golde blonde, she want natural looking blonde so it would be perfect an ashier or pale tone for her ! But I relly don't know what to do, I had trye before on her 9/01 Wella Color touch on natural roots and she had before bleaching only lighten her hair with go blonder (Jhonn Frieda) so the object was to tone all that
and it was gorgeous result but still in the side of the goldes tone, so that's why we do highlights and tone with 12/89.

So know she want to stop the bleaching, and started to work with her natural color base, so what can I do to get like medium blonde but not gold instead of that more ashy or pale, hope I explain myself.

 

[AcidPerm]

Bleach and 20 vol would have been far less damaging than using highlift and double 40 vol and you would have achieved a much better result.

Don't be intimidated by 'know it all' clients. You're the qualified hairdresser and should use the consultation as an opportunity to educate your client on why using bleach with a lower developer is better for her hair than trying to lighten it 5 levels with a tint.

Unfortunately, some clients still hark back to the dark ages when bleach and 40 vol or even 60 vol was routine. Modern lightening product formulas are far less damaging and produce superior results.

 

[Marief]

Yes I agree on that ! Thanks so much for your comment, it's true that because I'm not secure on my work already because I'm still improving myself, I'm only 22 years old, and I have finish my studies recently ! But yes I would have that on my mind

 

[funtimefranko]

Probably impossible to get that without bleach

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[Marief]

Well I think the best option is to stop working her lengths because her hair is very damage, I will work on her roots (level 5) I was thinking in giving her a medium blonde, so lighten her roots only with dye instead of bleaching and then give it to her a tone in all of that with Wella CT, what colors you recommend me to lighten her roots and then tone the mids and ends? I love 9/01, 8/71 but in her still get very golden, she wants more natural kind of blonde maybe like Rosie Huntington Whitely (Victoria's Secret model) so how can I achieve that color on her level 5 roots and level 12 lengths?

 

[Pancakes]

There is no level 12.
Haircolor ranges from 10 - 1.
12 is just a name in certain manufactures for their highlift series.

I would do her roots with a 7/1 and 30 vol. Tone her midshaft with something like 8/7 and leave ends out. Add a few faceframing balayage highlights with bleach.

 

[Marief]

Thank you ! But 7/1 on her level 5 roots I think it still would be orange undertones, that's the only way to lighten her roots? She have really strong undertones, mostly of the times her hair achieve a strawberry blonde, and she want ashy/ pale kind of blonde, but not to light maybe a darkblonde it would suit her more and be less demanding for maintain. I have try on her hair 9/01 CT in other ocations, the color it's fine but still more ginger than gold.

 

[Marief]

Maybe 9/8 and 7/75 to tone?

 

[ktolson]

Depending on the amount of new growth, you could go the route of Clairoxide 20 volume clear developer, 2 activation crystal packets and up to 7 blue lightener. I use this as an on scalp lightener which endothermic (uses the body heat) for processing. This does NOTHING for mid shaft and ends as you don't want to use external heat source. Hope this helps you and anyone else out there.

Peace

 

[tsparker78]

Depending on the amount of new growth, you could go the route of Clairoxide 20 volume clear developer, 2 activation crystal packets and up to 7 blue lightener. I use this as an on scalp lightener which endothermic (uses the body heat) for processing. This does NOTHING for mid shaft and ends as you don't want to use external heat source. Hope this helps you and anyone else out there.

Peace

Yeah, another Texas geek!

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[tsparker78]

But I don't understand why you say that clairol 7th stage won't lift the mishaft and ends?

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[Pancakes]

Thank you ! But 7/1 on her level 5 roots I think it still would be orange undertones, that's the only way to lighten her roots? She have really strong undertones, mostly of the times her hair achieve a strawberry blonde, and she want ashy/ pale kind of blonde, but not to light maybe a darkblonde it would suit her more and be less demanding for maintain. I have try on her hair 9/01 CT in other ocations, the color it's fine but still more ginger than gold.

If you want a truely cool/neutral result you just have to use bleach. Lighten up to a yellow or a pale yellow and tone accordingly. There is no other trick really😆

9.01 by the way was just too light. Rather stay darker to better counteract warmth or really lighten up to eliminate warmth and then tone down.