justchopitoff
Member
Hey everyone! This has been eating at me for a while, and it's honestly the only reason I joined this forum. However, I keep getting very different opinions on high lift color, and I thought this would be the perfect place to see what others have experienced first hand. (Specifically, high lift processing on a dark base using developer only.) Please feel free to share your experiences!
High Lift Claims: So, we all know high lift hair colors are typically designed for virgin hair levels 5/6 and above. The general consensus is that high lift dyes can only lift up to about 3 levels max and lead to a lot of warmth. However, some professionals claim that Wella's Koleston Perfect series can do more than that. Using the 40vol developer specifically made for this line, "Welloxon," a person could supposedly reach up to 4 or 5 levels of lift. Additionally, the use of "Special Mix" colors could be strong enough to counteract any unwanted undertones without adding any depth.
This obviously isn't a common lifting method on dark hair, but as you'll see below, it has been done before. I've attached links to videos of professional hair colorists claiming they can lift a dark base without bleach. I'm curious as to what the people on this website think. I personally believe that the aftermath would lead to so much warmth while fading, it wouldn't even matter if it could lift to the ideal color. However, I have more and more requests for "no bleach" lifting lately. I am willing to hear others out!
Links:
Using the last video's example scenario, let's say we did that. We try taking a level 5 (virgin hair) to a cool level 7/8, only using a high lift color mix with 40vol Welloxon at a 1:2 ratio. Let's assume we're battling through the same basic unwanted undertones you get through bleaching. So, using basic color theory, you would have to counteract the level 3 & 4 Red, the level 5 Red Orange, the level 6 & 7 Orange, and level 8 Orange Yellow.
Based off their advice, it looks like using a mix of 12/22, 12/61, and 12/81 would handle the unwanted warmth. Additionally, something like Special Mix /28 could cut any extra reds & brassiness.
What do you think? Would this be worth the attempt? Has anyone utilized this method on anything darker than a level 5? Is it honestly any less damaging than just using bleach (considering the Welloxon developer percentage is so high)?
Thanks for reading!
P.S. Some people use foils while others don't. I assume the difference would be in the degree of lift, what do you prefer?
High Lift Claims: So, we all know high lift hair colors are typically designed for virgin hair levels 5/6 and above. The general consensus is that high lift dyes can only lift up to about 3 levels max and lead to a lot of warmth. However, some professionals claim that Wella's Koleston Perfect series can do more than that. Using the 40vol developer specifically made for this line, "Welloxon," a person could supposedly reach up to 4 or 5 levels of lift. Additionally, the use of "Special Mix" colors could be strong enough to counteract any unwanted undertones without adding any depth.
This obviously isn't a common lifting method on dark hair, but as you'll see below, it has been done before. I've attached links to videos of professional hair colorists claiming they can lift a dark base without bleach. I'm curious as to what the people on this website think. I personally believe that the aftermath would lead to so much warmth while fading, it wouldn't even matter if it could lift to the ideal color. However, I have more and more requests for "no bleach" lifting lately. I am willing to hear others out!
Links:
(Lifting from Level 3 to Level 6 only using Level 6 color formulations "without bleach or brass results" - not even utilizing a high lift shade! Lauren also comments under the video that she didn't account for the Level 12 High Lifts at 40vol developer. She claims lifting 4 to 5 levels is possible in this instance.
(Lifting what looks like a Level 4 to a Level 7. Christel used 12/89, 12/11, 12/22, and 12/81 which led to a medium blonde color. I feel like 12/89 and 12/11 wouldn't do much in this case. Rather, using 12/61 would have neutralized the warmer tones, and using 40vol developer throughout would have helped lift it a bit more. I actually like the end result color here though, regardless if it was intentional or not.)
(Aubrey claims his client is a Level 6, but her hair color looks like a Level 3/4 to me. He uses 12/81 and 12/61 with 40vol developer, and it lifts to about a Level 8 auburn color. I think mixing 12/22 would have helped neutralize the copper tones, along with the /28 Special Mix that the first video mentions. Despite the warm color, I will admit the end result is a lot lighter than I expected.)
(Lifting from a Level 5 to a Level 8/9. Angelo suggests three parts 12/22, two parts 12/81, and one part 12/61, using the same 1:2 color to developer ratio as suggested at 40vol. There's no client result here, but this seems to be the most rational formulation for lifting and cutting through warm undertones in those levels. Additionally, Lauren's advice from the first video to use /28 seems like it would be a good suggestion.)
Using the last video's example scenario, let's say we did that. We try taking a level 5 (virgin hair) to a cool level 7/8, only using a high lift color mix with 40vol Welloxon at a 1:2 ratio. Let's assume we're battling through the same basic unwanted undertones you get through bleaching. So, using basic color theory, you would have to counteract the level 3 & 4 Red, the level 5 Red Orange, the level 6 & 7 Orange, and level 8 Orange Yellow.
Based off their advice, it looks like using a mix of 12/22, 12/61, and 12/81 would handle the unwanted warmth. Additionally, something like Special Mix /28 could cut any extra reds & brassiness.
What do you think? Would this be worth the attempt? Has anyone utilized this method on anything darker than a level 5? Is it honestly any less damaging than just using bleach (considering the Welloxon developer percentage is so high)?
Thanks for reading!
P.S. Some people use foils while others don't. I assume the difference would be in the degree of lift, what do you prefer?
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